I have often wondered why the left fork slider had one through-bolt. Now, I understand the thinking behind that.
The primary idea here is that on removal, the wheel comes out while leaving all (but one) fender bolts in place.
To address the issue of the fender's shape preventing wheel extrication, I raised the front end. Of course, that required lowering the bike's back end. I built a rolling platform to ease maintenance, and the platform has two eye-bolts, to which a "ratchet strap" attaches. Although the platform is handy, it's not entirely necessary. A patient helper willing to sit on the back of the seat would probably be enough. Let the air out of the rear tire so the back end can lower farther. To keep the ratchet strap from damaging the mufflers, they need to be removed.
Undo the axle clamps at the bottom of the legs (14mm), and remove the calipers' bolts (17mm). Also remove the ONE through-bolt (12mm) on the left fork slider that can be easily accessed. After removing that one bolt, the left brake hose's guard can also be removed. Pull the calipers off of the brake discs and drape them away from the wheel. Now, raise the bike's front end.
Under each hose guard, there is a thick rubber/neoprene section that further protects the brake hose. Inconveniently, these thick sections come between the fork legs and the tire when attempting to remove the wheel and tire. Don't worry about the hose and guard on the right side. On the left side, squirt some WD-40 under the thick section and slide the thick section toward the caliper. Once that has been moved, there will be enough clearance to pull the tire and wheel between the fork legs. Depending upon your front tire's width, you might also need to let out its air.
