Buying A GT 750

[sprint]

Hi

I am based in the East Sussex area of the UK and a new member.

I am looking at buying a Suzuki GT750 and would appreciate some advice on which may the the best model to go for in the L to M range?

I understand that after the L model they changed the porting and exhaust (removing the exhaust couplers) to provide more top end speed but as a result sacrificed the lower end torque?

I have never ridden a GT750 so have no experience of how the L and previous models compare to the later M, A and B's but since my riding is mainly around country lanes around the 50/55 mph range would the L model be more suitable with it's lower bottom end or is the change to the later M, A and B's not really that significant?

Are there any specific issues with the L's that make them a model to best avoid and should one be looking at the later M, A or B's?

Thanks

[mark.read3]

Hi,
Welcome to the forum.
There really isn't that much noticeable power difference between the L to the B models to talk about, they're all pretty much under powered compared to a modern 125 or 250.
Much the same with no real issues between those models although maybe a tad more difficult to find L specific parts if not complete.
Suggest trying to get a test ride out on one first before you take the plunge , as if you're used to riding a modern bike you soon will realise just how shiite these are in the modern world.
Brakes are dreadful in wet conditions(not much better in the dry) and suspension pretty archaic.
If it's a simple bike you're after that can fixed with only the barest of mechanical knowledge or tools then this is a good one to choose.

[sprint]

Hi Mark

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I know that the GT's will have no comparison when compared to a more modern bike, even as you say a good 125/250?

Most of my bikes are old British ones and some early Jap ones, Z900 A4, so I will not be shocked or too disappointed there. I have some more modern bikes if I want to go 'loony' but for most of the time I am happy pottering around the back lanes and B roads. Finding something in the UK that fits my bill is not easy and my first choice is an 'A' but I am aware of a 'L' with all the correct parts (I am aware that the 'L' had a number of parts unique to it alone) and plenty of documentation on the engine which is fairly important with these bikes as stuck barrels and replacing crank seals can be a problem and expensive. The only thing that I don't like on the L's are the coupled exhaust tubes which I believe can be a bugger to seal and keep leak tight?

[mark.read3]

True , you can always do this though.
Stuck barrels are harder to remove from j k models L onwards are not such a problem.

[sprint]

Does not blanking them off upset the carburation or bugger up the torque/power characteristics? Are the later uncoupled exhausts a direct replacement, assuming you could find a set?

Why is removing the barrels on the L onwards models less of a problem?

[barney01]

Blanking off with freezer plugs is done to improve top end speed/power but the carbs must be re jetted if this is done. The couplers were used by Suzuki to smooth out low speed acceleration and increase torque at low revs to make the GT more of a cruiser than say the kwak h1

[Kevine6959]

Blanking off with freezer plugs is done to improve top end speed/power but the carbs must be re jetted if this is done. The couplers were used by Suzuki to smooth out low speed acceleration and increase torque at low revs to make the GT more of a cruiser than say the kwak h1

a trusted source of information.... am relying on him

[reginald]

Guys, finally scared meself enough to bite down on the ridiculous braking issue. They simply have to go. All is not lost however, forks can be mod'ed with a damping rod weld up and Progressive springs, plus a brace really helps. The EBC Pro-lite discs are well worth the Cabbage , no need to go the full-balls fancy ones with billet carrier that cost twice as much. Instead go with braided lines, HH pads and a decent set of calipers. I rebuilt a set off an SV650 that are working like magic. The difference is Night and Day. Despite some disparaging comments on the forum I don't find they look all that bad. Beholder & all that I suppose.

Hope the attachments worked !

Cheers,
Gary in Canada (Reginald)

[Alan H]

If you're mainly going solo and back road fun, consider a 550. Better stop, go and handling. 750s are better if you do longer touring journeys, but handling isn't so sharp.

[PaulD738]

If you're mainly going solo and back road fun, consider a 550. Better stop, go and handling. 750s are better if you do longer touring journeys, but handling isn't so sharp.

Or better still for the ultimate fun machine on back lanes get an early H1 Kawa