right side switches

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Alan H
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Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: right side switches

Post by Alan H »

I did suggest that earlier, but then, I know nowt, me..... :roll: :lol:
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
teazer
Posts: 1035
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: Chicago

Re: right side switches

Post by teazer »

mrjones wrote:update time ,i tested all the wires on old and new switches all are fine,then with the switches fastened to the bars tried it with the kill switch in the off position the fuse didnt blow but when i turned it to "run" the fuse blew! i checked the various wires for overheating but none seemed overly warm ,maybe the wires to the fuse but thats obvious! it narrows it down a bit i think!
That's progress. Now you can start to check the wires to the ignition and take a careful look at the wiring diagram. There's some other circuit connected to that Run - Off switch.

Try disconnecting the coil 6 pin connector and turn it on to RUN and see if it still fails. If it does, it's either a wire shorted between the switch and the connector or the other circuits connected to that switch. If is stops blowing the fuse, it's a coil or coil wire between coil and 6 pin connector.
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canaletto5
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:43 pm
Location: Derbyshire

Re: right side switches

Post by canaletto5 »

teazer wrote:
mrjones wrote:update time ,i tested all the wires on old and new switches all are fine,then with the switches fastened to the bars tried it with the kill switch in the off position the fuse didnt blow but when i turned it to "run" the fuse blew! i checked the various wires for overheating but none seemed overly warm ,maybe the wires to the fuse but thats obvious! it narrows it down a bit i think!
That's progress. Now you can start to check the wires to the ignition and take a careful look at the wiring diagram. There's some other circuit connected to that Run - Off switch.

Try disconnecting the coil 6 pin connector and turn it on to RUN and see if it still fails. If it does, it's either a wire shorted between the switch and the connector or the other circuits connected to that switch. If is stops blowing the fuse, it's a coil or coil wire between coil and 6 pin connector.
Just to add to that, the kill switch controls power to the coils and to the voltage regulator. So in sequence, if the fuse blows with the kill switch on then disconnect the coil pack and the voltage regulator. If the fuse then doesn't blow, reconnect each unit in turn (with power off while you are doing it). If one of them is causing it, it will blow when it is reconnected. If the fuse blows with the two units disconnected, there is probably a short somewhere on the Orange/White wire. Kev
mrjones
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:38 pm
Location: wakefield

Re: right side switches

Post by mrjones »

hello again it seems its the voltage regulator at fault the fuse didnt blow with the coils connected but did with the reg connected, again, (i seem to say this a lot!) nothing was visibly wrong ,all wires in good shape and no damage of any kind , my next step is to get a regulator ....il keep you posted!
teazer
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: Chicago

Re: right side switches

Post by teazer »

That's great news. If you have to buy a replacement regulator, your may wish to consider buying a modern solid state combined device from somewhere like Electrex world http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR77.html. I have one on one of my bikes and never any issues with it.

There are those among us that would decry such desecration, but I have a box of Regulators that I will not fit on any bike that leaves my "shed". I am sure that some of them work, but why bother with such an ancient design when it's not necessary. I suppose if you want your bike to be a 100% original, that you may want a OEM style.
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yeadon_m
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Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 7:10 am
Location: Canterbury Kent

Re: right side switches

Post by yeadon_m »

Richard,

I too have a solid state RR77 device on my 750A and its been fine for 7 years. But, please be aware that its not adjustable for charging voltage. This matters because of voltage losses through the loom. The Vreg gets a too-low voltage reading on the battery voltage-sensing wire and results in over-voltage in the battery feed wire from the generator. This can be addressed by installing a relay from the battery triggered off the feed wire to the voltage-sensing cable, which is what I had to do on the 750A. Now it charges at the pre-set 14.2V. Prior to the relay it charged at 16V!

Personally, I also find the ancient Vregs OK and these are on both my 550B and 380B. If either broke though I would go the RR77 / relay install route!

Cheers,
Mike
teazer
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: Chicago

Re: right side switches

Post by teazer »

Excellent point Mike. My ignition is on a relay and I run the wire from that. It does make a difference. The voltage drop through a stock system is much higher than one might expect.
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reginald

Re: right side switches

Post by reginald »

Hi folks I'm looking at doing the RR77 upgrade - the only likely-looking Sense-wire I can find is pink with a series of 3 white Dash-marks on it . this does come out from the loom and feed into the Regulator I have a the moment, just checking since some of you refer to an Orange sense wire ? my loom has an orange lead connecting to the dashed-pink lead , and has an in-line fuse in the middle.

I think that's gotta be the one I need to cut to attach to the Relay ..?

Cheers
Gary M, Oh, Canada
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