right side switches

mrjones
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:38 pm
Location: wakefield

right side switches

Post by mrjones »

hello all more electrical problems! after a bit of fault finding by a friend with a multi meter my fuse blowing problem was narrowed down to the right side switches, i took them off and inspected every part nothing appeared wrong but when connected blew a fuse i bought new switches (pattern one week from cruzin image japan!) and was confident my problems were over ,plugged it in and blew another fuse! yes i know the new ones could be faulty , and yes it is plugged into the right connection, i could i suppose live without electric start and kill switch (although it dosnt spark is that kill switch related or another problem?) so any ideas?
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KETTLE BOY
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 1:05 pm
Location: Stortford, herts

Re: right side switches

Post by KETTLE BOY »

Sorry to hear about your problem with your switch... A switch is just that! Like a light switch, on or off... Making a connection then not.. Power comes in, you turn it on, bridge the gap making the connection.. You turn it off, braking that connection..
It's where it goes once the connection has been made.. Live in and 2 switch lines.. One, the kill side, the other,... start... Disconnect the wire on the low power side of the solenoid ( orange or orange with white stripe?... Then put in new fuse, ( with the wire disconnected & not touching anything, and turn on.. If the fuse doesn't blow, then bad solenoid.. If you then turn off, and connect the wire, & turn in... BANG,!! ... Blown fuse ..... The chances of the new switch with a problem is slim... Let us know how you get on.. :D
GT750 J 1972
GT750 L 1974
Z900 A4 1976
ZZR1100. 1998
Breville Sandwich Maker
I'm never wrong.. Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.


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mrjones
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:38 pm
Location: wakefield

Re: right side switches

Post by mrjones »

thanks for the advice i disconnected the yellow /green on the starter solenoid (i should have said my bikes a 750m) connected the right switches and after a few seconds the fuse blew again, i bought this bike with no solenoid fitted and put a new genuine part on i connected the live from the battery to the nearest point on the solenoid and the other connection goes to the starter motor im 99% sure thats right but if its the other way around would it be causing the trouble im having?
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Alan H
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Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: right side switches

Post by Alan H »

Better to test with the switch in place, then you can be sure that nothing is earthing that shouldn't be.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
teazer
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Location: Chicago

Re: right side switches

Post by teazer »

You are right about the solenoid, but what other connections do you have on that solenoid? One HD side is battery and the other is the starter. On the LT side there should be a connection to the right switch and if that is not connected and there are no other wires to the solenoid, that rules out the solenoid as the problem if the fuse is still blowing.

Power to that switch comes in on the orange wire and is split into the run circuit (orange and starter power (yellow with trace IIRC).

If the fuse still blows with the solenoid lead disconnected it suggests that there is a short in the ignition circuit. Or does it only blow when you press the starter button? Does it blow with the switch in the OFF position?
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yeadon_m
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Location: Canterbury Kent

Re: right side switches

Post by yeadon_m »

Mr Jones,
Two things to think about:
1 - good news is that as the fault reliably recurs, you will relatively easily find it. The worst electrical faults are intermittent ones which can fox you for months, occasionally dumping you at the side of the road. Please don't ask me how I know :-)
2 - that your fault blows fuses quickly tells you something useful. Not many wires on the GT are heavy enough of a wire gauge to do that without melting. So, do you smell any burning at all? can you see any melted insulation anywhere? if not, you should focus only on the heaviest gauge wires as the short is using one or more of these to blow the fuse.
I stored this post from Dan Hatfield some years ago and it helped me (my GT550B fault was a trapped switched live/orange to the light switches; I'd pinched it between the headlamp rim and the earth block in the shell, silly me).
Cheers,
Mike

Here are some thoughts for this problem:
There are only a few wires that have enough power to pop the fuse (after a
few seconds).
If you were to measure the short current, you would find it around 30 amps max. The alternator can only produce about 30 amps with each stator wire supplying about 10 amps. so, the wires which can pop the fuse are:
the plus of the rectifier;
the 2 red wires from the battery;
the orange wire on the regulator;
the orange power to the light switch;
the orange power to the turn signal relay;
the 2 oranges and 2 reds on the ignition switch;
and the orange power to the brake light switches.
mrjones
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:38 pm
Location: wakefield

Re: right side switches

Post by mrjones »

The fuse blows a few seconds after turning the ignition key to on ,with me not touching the starter or kill switch, i have put a new wiring harness (both parts ) and a new ignition switch on i have changed the fuse holder to a car type one with the spade fuses ,i was wondering if a "missing" earth could have anything to do with this, in april i asked ,on here, about a "spare" earth wire there were a few suggestions made which i tried but none seemed right, the part number is 36851-26600 which i got from the robinsons suzuki site. From the solenoid there are the two heavy duty connections ( battery/starter motor) and two others the yellow green from the switch and the red to the main harness , i will have to keep looking/thinking about this!
teazer
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Location: Chicago

Re: right side switches

Post by teazer »

Let's try to break this down and eliminate things one step at a time. Mike is right that there are not a lot of circuits that carry that much power, but let's start by trying to eliminate the switch and solenoid.

The fuse blows with the kill switch in the OFF position? OK, if you disconnect the right switch and turn on power does it still blow the fuse?

If not, the switch is faulty and is grounding internally. With an ohm meter check for continuity between the orange lead (power from the main switch) and ground. If that is any number other than infinity (open circuit) look inside the switch and see what wires are touching the housing.

The switch has three leads if it's the same as the one I got online and colors are not stock but the socket plugs in correctly:
Yellow with trace matches Orange (switched power)
Blue matches orange and white trace to coils
Brown (or is it dark red) matches Yellow with green trace to the solenoid.

With On/Off switch in OFF position there should be no continuity between any lead and any other and between any lead and the switch body. (with the switch unplugged)

Solenoid has 4 leads:
Yellow and trace from starter button.
Red from battery +
Black Lead to starter motor
the 4th connection (small) is to ground.
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yeadon_m
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Location: Canterbury Kent

Re: right side switches

Post by yeadon_m »

Mr Jones,

Another thought. If the fuse reliably blows after a few seconds, whip off the tank, seat and pop out the headlamp reflector, go round again, then the second the fuse blows, feel all the wires I listed. One will be distinctly warm as it was carrying the short current.

Cheers,
Mike
mrjones
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:38 pm
Location: wakefield

Re: right side switches

Post by mrjones »

update time ,i tested all the wires on old and new switches all are fine,then with the switches fastened to the bars tried it with the kill switch in the off position the fuse didnt blow but when i turned it to "run" the fuse blew! i checked the various wires for overheating but none seemed overly warm ,maybe the wires to the fuse but thats obvious! it narrows it down a bit i think!
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