Milky grey oil on the tops of pistons? GT550 1976

[rderrick121]

Hello, I have a 1976 GT 550 that seems to have this milky white oil on the tops of the pistons? I have checked the compression and its got about 150 lbs on every cylinder (this is a cheap amazon gauge) I have no Idea where it could be coming from. The oil injection reservoir is bone dry and the lines seem dry as well. When you clean the fluid out from in-between the plug gaps and reinstall them it fires although they quickly become clogged again = no spark from them. Theres a good bit of this oily stuff. How can I get it out and where is it coming from???

Also on the inside of the block some lines are translucent and some are black, what are the differences? The black ones come from the case and go higher than the translucent ones that go lower and seem to come from the oil pump.

Thank you!

[barney01]

Milky fluid is almost certainly a mixture of oil and water. What is the history of the bike? Has it been laid up for a long time? You should NEVER try to start this bike with an empty oil tank. If it does fire and run the engine will almost certainly seize up! The different oil pipes, the clear ones are oil feed pipes from the pump, the black rubber ones are SRIS pipes which recycle excess oil from the bottom of the crankcase.
If these bikes have not run for a while there are certain proceedures you must carry out before trying to fire them up or you could cause major damage.
If you give us some history and roughly whereabouts in the world you are we may be able to offer more help.

[Harrymail]

I agree with all Barney says. Please don't try starting until basic recommision work is done. A dry oil tank is certainly not a good start !

[Roger Ackery]

Hi Barney,Harry,sounds like it's to late (see his other post on "1976 GT550 Starter"" back on December 1st) He says there that it fired a couple of times
but starter won't turn motor over anymore..barely.
Probably seized

[barney01]

Oh dear yes it does sound like it.

[rderrick121]

Milky fluid is almost certainly a mixture of oil and water. What is the history of the bike? Has it been laid up for a long time? You should NEVER try to start this bike with an empty oil tank. If it does fire and run the engine will almost certainly seize up! The different oil pipes, the clear ones are oil feed pipes from the pump, the black rubber ones are SRIS pipes which recycle excess oil from the bottom of the crankcase.
If these bikes have not run for a while there are certain proceedures you must carry out before trying to fire them up or you could cause major damage.
If you give us some history and roughly whereabouts in the world you are we may be able to offer more help.

Hi folks, the motor turns over beautifully it’s just a problem I believe with the starter clutch. Could you shed some light on these procedures on how to clear the water and oil mix? Any time I have tried to run it has been with mixed fuel. The bike has been sitting for 5 if not 10 years in a shed, but possibly longer I’m not sure. Also, I am in the US-Pennsylvania

Thank you.

[barney01]

Hi
As long as the motor will turn over at least hopefully no seizure has occurred. I would first remove the ram air cover and cylinder head and scrape all the carbon and waste oil from the pistons and head. This will be a good time to examine the bores.
Drain the transmission oil from the gearbox using the plug that is parallel to the crankcase NOT the other angled one that's the gearbox brake. Put in fresh mineral oil. NOT car synthetic oil.
Clean and set the points and plugs. Set ignition timing.
Charge the battery. Fill the engine oil tank with fresh 2 stroke oil of your choice. Bleed the oil down to the pump.
Mixing oil in the petrol is not sufficient on this bike as the oil is injected to the crank bearings. I would squire some clean fresh 2 stroke oil through the plug holes .
All this is to be done BEFORE trying the start the motor.
The reading of 150 psi compression will be wrong as to do a proper compression test the engine needs to be run first to warm it up. Then plugs removed and kicked over 11 times with the throttle open. Then measured.
It is possible that after 15 years in a shed the crank seals may be toast. If they are that's an engine strip down.
If the engine runs good. If not and eventually anyway the carbs will need stripping and cleaning

[rderrick121]

Hi Barney, so today before I saw your post I pulled the lowest clear hoses and without the plugs in rotated the motor by hand using the kicker, the milky fluid was pushed out of these holes in the block, lots at a time.. I absorbed it with paper towels until it seemed to stop coming out. Once it stopped coming out I put everything back together and it fires right up no problem but the fluid still is coming from somewhere to clog the plugs in just a second or two. What fluids are in this bike total? I would think just 2 stroke oil, gear oil and gas? Also, I have oil to the pump. If that's the case and there is only 3 then is there any way I can blow oil through the whole system until it turns the color of the oil in my reservoir because shouldn't that and gas be the only thing that can get to the top of the cylinder unless there's a problem with a ring or perhaps even a cracked piston? Also, Carbs have been pulled apart and cleaned, jets are free.

thanks again.

Hi
As long as the motor will turn over at least hopefully no seizure has occurred. I would first remove the ram air cover and cylinder head and scrape all the carbon and waste oil from the pistons and head. This will be a good time to examine the bores.
Drain the transmission oil from the gearbox using the plug that is parallel to the crankcase NOT the other angled one that's the gearbox brake. Put in fresh mineral oil. NOT car synthetic oil.
Clean and set the points and plugs. Set ignition timing.
Charge the battery. Fill the engine oil tank with fresh 2 stroke oil of your choice. Bleed the oil down to the pump.
Mixing oil in the petrol is not sufficient on this bike as the oil is injected to the crank bearings. I would squire some clean fresh 2 stroke oil through the plug holes .
All this is to be done BEFORE trying the start the motor.
The reading of 150 psi compression will be wrong as to do a proper compression test the engine needs to be run first to warm it up. Then plugs removed and kicked over 11 times with the throttle open. Then measured.
It is possible that after 15 years in a shed the crank seals may be toast. If they are that's an engine strip down.
If the engine runs good. If not and eventually anyway the carbs will need stripping and cleaning

[barney01]

Okay if i were you this is the action i would take. Remove the spark plugs and pour as much diesel into the engine as you can. Now this is important. Turn the motor over using the kickstart. Under no circumstances try to start the bike. Leave the plugs out. This will wash and lubricate the crank and rubber seals. Then go to the front of the motor you will see black rubber pipes attached to brass valves. These are called SRIS. Pull off each of the pipes they are held on with a metal clip. Now use a socket and unscrew the valves the diesel will come pouring out hopefully with all the crud. Again kick the motor over. Leave overnight to drain as much diesel as possible out. Clean and replace the valves and reattach hoses. Replace the cleaned spark plugs and the oil pump pipes.
OPEN THE GARAGE DOOR apologise to the neighbours and start it up. If it runs it will smoke like hell but it will eventually clear.
That should remove all the crud.
You are correct when you say there is only gas/2T engine oil/mineral tranny oil in the bike.
Never use compressed air to blow oil through the pipes you will damage the valves which have a delicate spring inside.
Good luck

[Alan H]

I was going to suggest similar, but you'll need 'easy start' or similar to start it.
If there's water and oil in the crankcases, (milky fluid suggest you have this), the bottom end may or may not be viable now. Are you religious, as praying might be good about now.
Clean the carbs out properly and use new fuel with a small amount of oil in to start the bike. Put the fuel in a bottle or test tank and connect it to the carbs. You should now have clean fuel going through clean carbs into a clean engine.
Do not rev the engine as you have a motor that has not got the correct oil system running at this time.
Let us know how you get on.