Clutching at straws? 0r mebbe not.

[Alan H]

Well, I finally managed to do some garage work today as the weather was fine, warm and fairly windless - until about 5.30 then it started being rainy spotty, cool, and very gusty!
Anyway, I managed to get quite a bit done to the Earwig engine until I started to examine the clutch (later type) that had been fitted it to the bike before it got stripped for a new crank and making shiny again.
The clutch had always been a bit of a pain, occasionally slipping and occasionally the starter clutch not holding during starts.
Well, I stripped the Borg Warner bit and found that parts marked as 3, 4 and 5 were actually missing - so it's a wonder the clutch worked at all really.
Fortunately I have a spare (complete) clutch that was going in the 550J to compare with - and that is complete, so I stripped that and measured the missing bits. The thrust bearing (item 5) is NLA, as are the No 3 and 4 parts, but ebay is my friend and I can get something very close to the circlip and washer at least. I'm sure that a thrust bearing will crop up too eventually.
Anyway, just a bit of interest for anyone with an interest on the GT550 clutch now or in the future - if I get the relevant parts, I'll continue the thread.

[Frankibaby7]

Very interesting alan ,my next task is the bloody hard clutch on my 77 b ,may need your expert help when I strip the casing off good man .

[canaletto5]

Very interesting alan ,my next task is the bloody hard clutch on my 77 b ,may need your expert help when I strip the casing off good man . 20200315_130433.jpg

Couple of things to think about

Easy = Oil the cable itself, it might just be dry

Middling - make sure the clutch actuator moves freely - The grease often goes dry and binds the moving parts/ This picture should help if you haven't got a manual

https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop ... t550clutch

Harder - Remove the clutch pressure plate, check spring tension etc, some-one may have fitted Heavy duty springs. Make sure the plates aren't gunged up by some previous berk adding synthetic oil rather than mineral. Kev

[Frankibaby7]

oh yes thanks kev yes that's great advice ,the clutch is really stiff to engage, I looked at the oil in the casing ,didn't look that bad ,but ,you never know how long bike was standing ,it was running on 2 when I bought it ,but I never ran it again ,I just stripped the carbs off an sent them to baz ,,I will oil the cable as you advised ,but I will be changing the gearbox and clutch oil anyway ,and probably new plates to go on with ,I've bought loads of parts ,but they are so dear now on ebay kev ,but much appreciate the helpful advice

[Alan H]

Don't buy aftermarket cables. Get genuine, they are MUCH better.

[Frankibaby7]

Ok alan good advice cheers

[barney01]

Check the springs are OEM and the correct ones. Some people fit stronger springs or cheapo ones that are too stiff.
Also
The clutch actuator rod is in two parts. A long and a shorter piece. Each part has a flat and a rounded end. Make sure the rounded ends both face the clutch.I think that is to help ease of movement

[Frankibaby7]

yes I will check all the springs I've done a clutch before on my 550 m , and I'll look at the push rods, it is stupidly stiff ,but that's the next job ,cheers barney

[Alan H]

Just a thought, make sure the clamp bolt that goes through the actual clutch lever isn't too tight. If it's an ordinary bolt, rather than a correct 'shouldered one, the lever is very stiff to pull in. The clutch cable is the same as the GT750 btw.

[barney01]

Another thing to check is when the clutch plates are removed, inspect the inside of the fins of the basket. Sometimes with wear, ridges appear which cause your problem. If there are ridges they can be smoothed down with fine emery or wet/dry paper.