Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

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swarrans
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Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by swarrans »

I have read the other threads, but just to be absolutely sure as I don't want to do this twice, the new fork seals for my GT750A are different to the originals and are about 11mm thick, but the gap between the fork shoulder and the circlip groove is about 16mm - so do I just drive them down until they are level with the circlip or go all the way down to the shoulder?
Also, the design looks different to the old ones as both sides has a spring clip - but I'm assuming they should be mounted with the writing facing up right?

Finally, I'm nervous about getting them in without damaging them. I can't find a piece of pipe of the right OD and I stupidly threw away the old ones so I can't use them to drive the new ones in - any tips?

Image

Thanks Simon
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astrax
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by astrax »

swarrans wrote:I have read the other threads, but just to be absolutely sure as I don't want to do this twice, the new fork seals for my GT750A are different to the originals and are about 11mm thick, but the gap between the fork shoulder and the circlip groove is about 16mm - so do I just drive them down until they are level with the circlip or go all the way down to the shoulder?
Also, the design looks different to the old ones as both sides has a spring clip - but I'm assuming they should be mounted with the writing facing up right?

Finally, I'm nervous about getting them in without damaging them. I can't find a piece of pipe of the right OD and I stupidly threw away the old ones so I can't use them to drive the new ones in - any tips?

Thanks Simon

Hi Simon

No need to apologise, better to check twice and do the job once, or worse, not ask and bugger things up.
The fork seal on the left in the photo looks to be correct way up, as you said, the writing upwards in this case.

Not sure about the correct thickness of the seals or depth of the cut out in the fork leg, one of the other guys may be able to comment, not done mine for a few years.
Make sure you can get a tube or large socket that touches close to the outside of the seal as that will be the strongest area, ideally say 0.5mm smaller in diameter than the outside of the fork seal

Good luck
Ian
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canaletto5
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by canaletto5 »

I'm just about to do mine on the 550 and they are the same. The seal on the left is the right way up. You will need a spacer under the new seal to make up the lost depth. I have ordered some of these to see if they will do the job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371400185144? ... EBIDX%3AIT

You can buy seal insertion tools but they cost a bomb. Fortunately I have a socket with a OD of 47mm that does the job. Maybe you could borrow one off a mate? Otherwise, these are cheap as chips :D

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Impact-So ... xyYSdTDFfz

Kev
swarrans
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by swarrans »

Thanks chaps - I take it you put the seal in before the stanchion if you are using that socket then? I'm bound to have a socket in that case - I was looking for one with the right od AND an ID that would clear the stanchion - doh! I feel a bit dumb now....

I'd be grateful if you report back on those nitrile rings Kev.


Simon
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yeadon_m
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by yeadon_m »

Simon,

Not much to add to the chaps' feedback. You might find that the spacer was an apparently part of the original seal, which was two part - the seal itself and the spacer. I managed to retain my spacers in the GT550B.

A socket was the tool I used too. Make sure the fork leg entry is totally clean before you start to drive it home. You pop the stanchion through afterwards. The seal makes such a tight fit in the leg it won't be going walkies anyway. They have a steel outer covered in rubber.

On the seals themselves, I too fitted 'double lipped/double sprung' seals and I did find they have slightly higher resistance to movement when riding. In other words, the double lippers can make the forks feel a little less 'supple'. In their favour, I read, is that they are less likely to ooze due to the twin seal.

Cheers,
Mike
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by RichardsMorphy »

I've just posted a piece of pipe cut from a 3m length I bought to someone else doing their forks. 'Can stick a label on another piece and post it to you if any use or you could try your local plumbing supplies. I use that and the old seal upside down to drive mine, with the stantion in place. I also lube the seal and cover the stantion with clingfilm whilst sliding it on.

Image
Drew. '75 GT750M
swarrans
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by swarrans »

Many thanks for the offer but I'll do it with the stanchions removed and a socket.

Why oh why did I throw the old seals away?......I don't think there was a separate spacer I think the seal was just thicker, but I can't check now of course

Simon
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canaletto5
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by canaletto5 »

Hopefully the o rings I ordered wil be here in a day or so. I will let you know how it goes. Kev
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nealblath
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by nealblath »

You can use just a strong plastic bag over the end of the stanchion to slide the seals over without damaging them!

Also make sure you lubricate the inner diameter of the seals with plenty of seal grease before sliding them onto the tube.
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canaletto5
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Re: Replacing Fork Seals again (sorry!)

Post by canaletto5 »

Oh, what I have also done on previous ones is that, where the seal seat that goes around the seal gets gouged by angry, frustrated bodgers trying to get the old seal out ( :oops: :oops: ) There is a risk that it will leak. I have cleaned up with white spirit then run a small bead of black (to match the seal colour) silicon around the join. let it go off and then fitted the seal retainer clip. It doesn't have to be black but I just can't help it :roll:
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