Project X
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- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
- Location: Chicago
Re: Project X
Ladies,
If you don't mind, please take your banter to another thread. Joking around is fine, but this is getting old when it spills over into a build thread.
Thanks
If you don't mind, please take your banter to another thread. Joking around is fine, but this is getting old when it spills over into a build thread.
Thanks
- stevewharton
- Posts: 2150
- Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:01 am
- Location: Grimsby, Lincolnshire.
Re: Project X
Couldn't agree more!teazer wrote:Ladies,
If you don't mind, please take your banter to another thread. Joking around is fine, but this is getting old when it spills over into a build thread.
Thanks
Look, my paintwork hasn't got "Fish scales" they're "Dragon scales" right!!! However, after some thought, I will accept "Black Marlin" or "Swordfish", but definitely not "Haddock" or "Cod".
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
So now I have had a chance to run it a bit with a set of old finely adjusted (hacked) Dencos, it was time to look at the custom (properly tuned) exhausts.
First step, confirmation of the current porting.
Most dimensions are above, in addition.
Exhaust is now 57 wide (stock is 47 wide and 25.3 high)
Transfers I left at stock (37) wide and height (12mm)
Inlets now 27 wide and 32 high (stock is 28.5 high and 25 wide).
Because of the reed valves I also have ports in the piston skirts.
Remember I also have zero deck because of the squish (O ring) head, so all of my opening times have changed (as in the picture).
Anyway, luckily I know a genius with exhaust calculating software and the bottom line is to get the best power curve, I need to raise my transfers by 3mm. No probs will do that on the pre-paint strip.
So my exhaust will look like......
......with a small compromise. I want to use tube headers to avoid segments and seam welds and that means s straight header (not a small cone as in the optimal calcs). But running the software again, I loose a small amount of power above 8k so I'm not worried about that and prefer the cosmetic improvement, Also I can apply a small swage to the out end of the header which might bring some of that power back. We will see.....
The power curve should look like this.....fingers crossed!!
The stinger (tailpipe) will actually be slid in and welded 200mm down into the diffuser/belly to leave a small bit sticking out for a slide on silencer.
The header should finish up like this.....leaving a bit of extra length for adjustment....
Time to go cone developing and welding.......
First step, confirmation of the current porting.
Most dimensions are above, in addition.
Exhaust is now 57 wide (stock is 47 wide and 25.3 high)
Transfers I left at stock (37) wide and height (12mm)
Inlets now 27 wide and 32 high (stock is 28.5 high and 25 wide).
Because of the reed valves I also have ports in the piston skirts.
Remember I also have zero deck because of the squish (O ring) head, so all of my opening times have changed (as in the picture).
Anyway, luckily I know a genius with exhaust calculating software and the bottom line is to get the best power curve, I need to raise my transfers by 3mm. No probs will do that on the pre-paint strip.
So my exhaust will look like......
......with a small compromise. I want to use tube headers to avoid segments and seam welds and that means s straight header (not a small cone as in the optimal calcs). But running the software again, I loose a small amount of power above 8k so I'm not worried about that and prefer the cosmetic improvement, Also I can apply a small swage to the out end of the header which might bring some of that power back. We will see.....
The power curve should look like this.....fingers crossed!!
The stinger (tailpipe) will actually be slid in and welded 200mm down into the diffuser/belly to leave a small bit sticking out for a slide on silencer.
The header should finish up like this.....leaving a bit of extra length for adjustment....
Time to go cone developing and welding.......
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
Got the new stainless steel headers back today.
Plan is to still use the GT header clamp but add a dual radial O ring seal feature as the compression seals are a bit crap. If that works well I may even do away with the old seal and clamp and use quick release springs.
I also went back to the clocks.
Started with 1200 Bandit clocks and console.
I wanted to be able to change electronics so had to design a split casing to get PCB's in and out.
The black glass is the original glass with window tint inside. This obviously meant undoing the bezel crimp rings and resetting them again!
The small gauge is now the GT gear indicator.Speed/revs on left. Fuel, temp and general OLED display on the right.
I will polish the newly machined domes up and get it all mounted next week.
Plan is to still use the GT header clamp but add a dual radial O ring seal feature as the compression seals are a bit crap. If that works well I may even do away with the old seal and clamp and use quick release springs.
I also went back to the clocks.
Started with 1200 Bandit clocks and console.
I wanted to be able to change electronics so had to design a split casing to get PCB's in and out.
The black glass is the original glass with window tint inside. This obviously meant undoing the bezel crimp rings and resetting them again!
The small gauge is now the GT gear indicator.Speed/revs on left. Fuel, temp and general OLED display on the right.
I will polish the newly machined domes up and get it all mounted next week.
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
- yeadon_m
- Posts: 7401
- Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 7:10 am
- Location: Canterbury Kent
Re: Project X
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed reading this right through in one go.
As an officially not very skilled at anything amateur, I’ve no idea how one person can plan & fabricate to the extent you have done. Like many here as well, I’m a purely analogue guy (except where it comes to the disciplines of new pharmaceutical R&D, where I occasionally surprise myself).
Bloody well done. Would love to see a YouTube “how the GT750FS was made” plus clips of it running / being ridden. All in due course, obv.
Cheers!
Mike
As an officially not very skilled at anything amateur, I’ve no idea how one person can plan & fabricate to the extent you have done. Like many here as well, I’m a purely analogue guy (except where it comes to the disciplines of new pharmaceutical R&D, where I occasionally surprise myself).
Bloody well done. Would love to see a YouTube “how the GT750FS was made” plus clips of it running / being ridden. All in due course, obv.
Cheers!
Mike
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
Appreciate the comments Mike. It has definitely been a labour of love and learning new skills.
I might try to a consolidated write up for one of the mags sometime.
Still stuff to do.
Final exhausts are at the welders now. Software is almost done. Then the fun begins......Carb tuning, dyno then take it all apart and bling it up.
Havent quite decided on the colour scheme yet....
Stay tuned.
I might try to a consolidated write up for one of the mags sometime.
Still stuff to do.
Final exhausts are at the welders now. Software is almost done. Then the fun begins......Carb tuning, dyno then take it all apart and bling it up.
Havent quite decided on the colour scheme yet....
Stay tuned.
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
Another small update (still waiting for exhausts!!).
So the clocks are all done.
For those that have followed this you will remember it involved;
1. Strip out Suzuki Bandit clocks
2. Make new bodies
3. Make new glass/bezel holders
4. Black coat the inside of the original glass
5. Design electronics and PCBs to include;
a. gear indicator (in middle)
b. Rev bar display (on left of left display)
c. Speedo digits display (on right of left)
d. Temp gauge (left of right display)
e. Fuel display (right of right display)
f. OLED data display (middle of right display), for; GPS (lat-Long), Speed (GPS), bearing, Water temp (in digits), fuel left and miles to go, Odometer - tripmeter, Battery level, engine revs in digits and clock
6. Write software
7. Make new back covers
8. Change main console display (High beam etc.) to LED's.
All jolly good fun!!
So the clocks are all done.
For those that have followed this you will remember it involved;
1. Strip out Suzuki Bandit clocks
2. Make new bodies
3. Make new glass/bezel holders
4. Black coat the inside of the original glass
5. Design electronics and PCBs to include;
a. gear indicator (in middle)
b. Rev bar display (on left of left display)
c. Speedo digits display (on right of left)
d. Temp gauge (left of right display)
e. Fuel display (right of right display)
f. OLED data display (middle of right display), for; GPS (lat-Long), Speed (GPS), bearing, Water temp (in digits), fuel left and miles to go, Odometer - tripmeter, Battery level, engine revs in digits and clock
6. Write software
7. Make new back covers
8. Change main console display (High beam etc.) to LED's.
All jolly good fun!!
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
- Alan H
- Posts: 12104
- Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
- Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire
Re: Project X
Very impressive. I'd like to see it 'in the flesh' so to speak.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
That is definitely the plan!!
Once the exhaust are done then final tune up and strip, paint and rebuild.
The easy bit!!
Once the exhaust are done then final tune up and strip, paint and rebuild.
The easy bit!!
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
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- Posts: 32
- Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:27 am
- Location: Glasgow
Re: Project X
Incredible.