Kettle Clinic

I wanted a hydraulic clutch.

First mod was to cut in a 14x4x6 seal into the Hub end of the input shaft. The adjuster in the pressure plate then moves backwards and forwards through that to give the adjustment I need. Pics are above in the thread.

Next the opposite side of the input shaft had to have a seal as well for the pushrod. The old GS750 used a good seal with an 8mm bore so that meant I needed an 8mm pushrod. Easy enough, and a nice stainless pushrod and seal.
The pushrod then passes behind the primary drive outer and inner casing with minor mods....like it was made for one!?
The pushrod then goes through my new dynastarter mounting plate where a shaved KTM clutch slave mounts...
Just gotta tweak the outer dynastarter cover now....more later.

Kev,

Love the solutions you are coming up with. That hydraulic clutch arrangement is one that I couldn't find a neat solution to, so I'll have to copy that. Heads are a PIA to convert for sure. I have one here with inserts and all three are different - and they don't seal all that well either, so I may borrow that idea as well.

Not so sure about that big assed lump hanging off the end of the crank though. At one point I obtained a Polaris triple generator/magneto arrangement with CDI. What I liked about that is that it's closer to the crankcase, so less crank whip, but even at that I realized that Polaris use a double row bearing to help stop crank ends from snapping off. I did get my hands on GSXR alternator which is also inside out, so to speak. It's lighter and thinner than a stock GT alternator which is way too wide. It's a permanent magnet type with those super strong rare earth magnets and if I can measure the crank taper of both, I should be able to get an adapter machined up.

Your outrigger bearing is a good idea, but watch it when the revs start to rise. It may need a beefier or double row crank bearing.

A few catchups....I've not been idle!!

So the finished generator casing assembly involved making the spacer/mounting plate to locate the dynastarter and the clutch slave. That had to be keyed in place to allow me to remove the outer cover to bleed the clutch. Its a KTM EXC450 clutch slave BTW. Smallest I could find with most torque.
Then the outer casing had to allow for the clutch 'bulge' and I found a hacked part from a GT185 was perfect!!

While I am still waiting for the barrel, porting.......AAGH!!

I thought I would get into the petrol tank.

So here is the first 'cut'. I need a fuel and oil tank.

I like the general shape of the VFR800 tank and it makes the frame fit easy. So hack the fuel filler and move to the right (it is attached by internal tubes).

Get another tank and do the same on the left and create an internal oil tank under the left cap. This means I can keep the VFR fuel sender which is cool and loose the crappy frame oil tank. I will build a level monitor into the oil tank later..
Welding should be this week then LOTS of filling...... More later.

Did you get my email Dude.

Baz

The one about the 8mm bolt? Yes thanks..Some has helicoiled the crank end at 7mm x 1.25 so ive got to make a custom bolt for the ignition.

Cheers

Kev

Is it possible to remove that odd sized helicoil and re-tap for an 8mm helicoil and standard sized bolt?

Or use a 7mm bolt on the ignition? Can't remember what iggy you are using on that - not stock for sure.

Ignition is an Electrex World one.

Looks pretty good.

Did a bit of work on the front end yesterday.

Got the GS1000 6 pot calipers refurbed and fitted.....
problem is the spacing is a bit out for the CB1000R discs and wheels so I need to trim 3.25mm off each disc mounting face.....Ha....nothing compared to struggling with a dry clutch!!
Onto the water pump next. I've bought an electric one and just ordered all the hoses. Routing is fun because of the rear mounted radiator but it looks like it should all fit neatly......

Hopefully lots of Xmas pressies to keep the build going

Excellent thread. Keep. up the updates.