T575 Steam Triple

[garry55]

wiring aborted - waiting for the MotoGadget M unit and button to arrive. Only 1 wire from all the bar switches to the control unit!

[madforitkev]

I did look at those but kinda decided to build my own to get a bit more flexibility (probably should never had started but you know how that goes!).

Basically Ive got a computer with a Bluetooth module so I can control anything on the bike. Need to add a GPS then I have pretty much finished the design.

All I need to do is to write software to pretty much make it do anything, hopefully!!

[garry55]

clever you Kev !
I'll struggle to wire-in the single wire from the M Button to the M Unit
Then I have to programme it..................

[garry55]

can't believe I've got this far and only just noticed that with the standard 40mm CV carbs and fuel tank fitted, there is no room for an air box



so I had a root around in the garage and found some 32mm slide carbs as fitted to the RGV250's, then unearthed a set of 3 new, boxed 34mm OKO Keihin copies.

The RGV carbs were discarded and the set of OKO's fitted using modified carb-to-barrel inlet rubbers.



I now have 4" of room in which to fit an air box, which is away for fabricating.

You can see the difference between the standard carbs and the OKO's in the following pictures.

[garry55]

This arrived from Germany yesterday.................



so today I made a temporary bracket for it to fit where the Triumph's fuse box used to live...........



like so................



I'll wire it in tonight, then spend the rest of the week attempting to programme it!

[garry55]

M Unit installation part 1

The M button is the tiny cylindrical gizmo with the coloured label on.
To the left of that is a 6-way connector (only 4 in use at the moment) that connects the l/h handlebar switches to the M Unit.
They are:- lights, horn, left indicator and right indicator.
To the right of the button is a 3-way connector (only 1 in use so far) that connects the r/h switch.
The spliced black wire is 1 from the front brake switch and 1 from the rear brake switch.
All these signals connect to the M Unit via the thin green cable.
The blue cable is for the starter button (redundant on this build).
The black cable is an earth connection.
Simples.





Here it is with all the earth wires connected too and sheathed in plastic.
The redundant T595 harness has a lovely earth cable that runs from the battery and then splits into 10 different feeds -
absolutely ideal for this installation as the wire sizes are just right and have the absolute minimum of connections.

[madforitkev]

Nice job!

Certainly simplifies things. How did the programming go?

Looks like I've got the ignition sorted from HPI. They have a new proto unit that isnt self generating so should be OK. Probably gonna have to rework the dynastarter now though as the ignition comes with an alternator output from what I can gather so far (don't speak Flem).

Onwards and upwards, will fiddle with that later.

Finished all my computer design (the joy of long haul flights). Getting PCB's made now. Just gotta find somewhere to stuff it all in.

Need to foocus on seeing if the engine actually runs first before I get all excited with programming again.

I wonder who has more sh** it his garage, you or me??

[garry55]

Haven't programmed it yet Kev - doing it in 4 stages.

Stage 1 - install M Unit and power-up.

Stage 2 - connect inputs and check operation of all switches (LED's on output side show if all is OK or not)

Stage 3 - when all is OK on the input side, connect each output and check everything works.

Stage 4 - programme the 12 menus to suit.

By s**t on the garage floor, do you mean tools / wire / nuts and bolts / cable ties or other projects?

I have plenty of all of them strewn around the garage - not the tidiest of workers me

[garry55]

back to the air box - collected this today - front is GT750, top is part of a T595 airbox..........



the metal box was only tacked together as it may not fit (because I measured it)..........





it fits!



I was 1cm out - the 3 metal trumpets require shortening by that amount to allow the fuel tank to sit flush.

[garry55]

wiring finished and tidied. The only item that doesn't work is the low fuel warning light. The tank switch is faulty and a replacement is £75,so that can wait.

GT750 J/K throttle cables and oil pump cable installed,along with a GT750 coolant expansion tank.



radiator cap easily accessible when the front cover of the fuel tank is removed.



fuel system next........................