Project X
- Alan H
- Posts: 12119
- Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
- Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire
Re: Project X
You might find that the stat & heat sensor are in a bit of a dead zone as regards true temperature readings. I was chatting with Richard on here about that very subject a couple of days ago & the standard sensor on his Hippo tends to transmit readings hotter than the actual water. A sensor in the rubber tubing would be more accurate perhaps.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
I've got a sensor near the head and one at the radiator return.
One feeds the ECU and one controls the cooling fans. I may consolidate them in the final build but will see what the next dyno run gives.
I can also mess with water pump speed to maximise the cooling effect.
Finally, I am working on some new ducting to both help the fuel injection and the radiator cooling. All good fun.....
One feeds the ECU and one controls the cooling fans. I may consolidate them in the final build but will see what the next dyno run gives.
I can also mess with water pump speed to maximise the cooling effect.
Finally, I am working on some new ducting to both help the fuel injection and the radiator cooling. All good fun.....
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
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- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
- Location: Chicago
Re: Project X
Very presentable power already. AFR is a bit lean at times though. See if you can fill that hole or flatten that hill or however you look at it. Somewhere around 12.5.-12.8 is often the right number for full power pulls.
168 is about where I like to run a GT750 and I have yet to fail a stock head gasket. I use Cometic gaskets exclusively and they are ordered to a certain finished size which you can specify. I like to go 1mm larger than the bore to allow for minor misalignment and movement. Stock type 76/77mm bore head gaskets are a waste of time.
Transfer time can be increased but blowdown is always an issue with those motors, so i prefer to go as wide as possible on transfers but try to avoid breaking through on the two outer ports.
168 is about where I like to run a GT750 and I have yet to fail a stock head gasket. I use Cometic gaskets exclusively and they are ordered to a certain finished size which you can specify. I like to go 1mm larger than the bore to allow for minor misalignment and movement. Stock type 76/77mm bore head gaskets are a waste of time.
Transfer time can be increased but blowdown is always an issue with those motors, so i prefer to go as wide as possible on transfers but try to avoid breaking through on the two outer ports.
- garry55
- Posts: 306
- Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 2:49 pm
- Location: White Rose County
Re: Project X
Hi Kev
Hows the project going?
Thought this might interest you - a fuel injected Moto Martin Kettle.
Hows the project going?
Thought this might interest you - a fuel injected Moto Martin Kettle.
Garry.
Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help...............
Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help...............
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
That is very pretty!!!
Sorry I have been off line for a bit. Too much work and struggling with cylinder head issues.
The last dyno saw bypass into the water jacket.
This was with with copper Wills rings fitted which I really hoped would do the job but a combination of vibration at high RPM and poor sealing surface just didnt work out.
Anyway... I've gone back to a Cometic gasket and filled the barrel Wills rings grooves with weldmetal to create a wider landing surface for the main barrel seal.
My compression has dropped from 170 psi to about 155, so still pretty good compared to a standard gasket at around 125psi from memory.
First garage run didn't go well and when it got up to temp I had overflow again, like I was pressurising the cooling circuit. Bit of head scratching and a radiator cap test and my cap was releasing at about 0.8 bar which is too low.
I found another ebay one which releases at about 1.2 bar which is nearer normal.
Todays run was much better. I added a pressure gauge to the cooling circuit so I can watch temperature rise with pressure.
At around 70C it is just over 1 bar. I have my cooling fans set to 75C and when they cut in the effect is very marked and the pressure drops to under 1 bar. No leaks! This is static in a garage with no air flow.
I have two cooling fans which I can program separately. Ideally I want to operate at around 60C so I am going to play with the water pump speed next to make sure I get enough dwell in the radiator and I will have one fan cut in early (60C ish) if pump speed isnt enough. Kettles naturally run around 80C I believe but my twin Rad setup should get temps lower with a combination of pump speed and fans. Lower temp, more power!!
So back on track hopefully.
Sorry I have been off line for a bit. Too much work and struggling with cylinder head issues.
The last dyno saw bypass into the water jacket.
This was with with copper Wills rings fitted which I really hoped would do the job but a combination of vibration at high RPM and poor sealing surface just didnt work out.
Anyway... I've gone back to a Cometic gasket and filled the barrel Wills rings grooves with weldmetal to create a wider landing surface for the main barrel seal.
My compression has dropped from 170 psi to about 155, so still pretty good compared to a standard gasket at around 125psi from memory.
First garage run didn't go well and when it got up to temp I had overflow again, like I was pressurising the cooling circuit. Bit of head scratching and a radiator cap test and my cap was releasing at about 0.8 bar which is too low.
I found another ebay one which releases at about 1.2 bar which is nearer normal.
Todays run was much better. I added a pressure gauge to the cooling circuit so I can watch temperature rise with pressure.
At around 70C it is just over 1 bar. I have my cooling fans set to 75C and when they cut in the effect is very marked and the pressure drops to under 1 bar. No leaks! This is static in a garage with no air flow.
I have two cooling fans which I can program separately. Ideally I want to operate at around 60C so I am going to play with the water pump speed next to make sure I get enough dwell in the radiator and I will have one fan cut in early (60C ish) if pump speed isnt enough. Kettles naturally run around 80C I believe but my twin Rad setup should get temps lower with a combination of pump speed and fans. Lower temp, more power!!
So back on track hopefully.
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
- Location: Poole
Re: Project X
So far the bike seems pretty stable and the cooling fans are doing the job. MOT again next then a few rides before back to the dyno.
You may remember I designed a fairly complicated electronics system for the bike with LCD displays etc.
Well I've got another little project on the go.....it's an AWD 400HP Turbo Mini
For this I have decided to design an Android dashboard and looking at it a bit more I realised the Kettle would be a much elegant design with one as well.
It is basically fed with data from the Speeduino ECU with a few bits added. I will try to retain the retro clock look I have but this should be a clean addition!
You may remember I designed a fairly complicated electronics system for the bike with LCD displays etc.
Well I've got another little project on the go.....it's an AWD 400HP Turbo Mini
For this I have decided to design an Android dashboard and looking at it a bit more I realised the Kettle would be a much elegant design with one as well.
It is basically fed with data from the Speeduino ECU with a few bits added. I will try to retain the retro clock look I have but this should be a clean addition!
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!