X750h!

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garry55
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Re: X750h!

Post by garry55 »

teazer wrote: Thu Dec 08, 2022 6:13 pm Your projects let me know that I still have some grasp on reality. In fact I feel almost boringly normal and unadventurous by comparison.

To realise how tenuous your grasp on reality really is, please read the paragraph below :D

Another possibility if you want an air cooled triple is to go with a Kawasaki motor and if you want a GT750 bottom end, I believe that it's possible with a fat lift plate to fit an H2 top end to a GT bottom end. Not sure how you twist the transfers, but with a 30mm or so lift plate it should be possible.
Welcome to my world !
Garry.

Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help............... :D
750ynot
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Re: X750h!

Post by 750ynot »

I love your aptitude Gary!

I wish I was there with you.

I may keep throwing ideas at you :lol:

Here's another, how about some alloy heat sink's for electronics, cut to fit wherever and ally welded to wherever you can ? should help cooling ?
Tony
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garry55
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Re: X750h!

Post by garry55 »

750ynot wrote: Sun Dec 11, 2022 9:46 pm I love your aptitude Gary!

I wish I was there with you.

I may keep throwing ideas at you :lol:

Here's another, how about some alloy heat sink's for electronics, cut to fit wherever and ally welded to wherever you can ? should help cooling ?
Hows about false cylinder fins? Made to look like a T150 motor? 8 cylinder fins - 8 head fins? And rocker box covers on top? With a fake oil feed pipe? That's what's I have in mind.............

But please keep throwing your ideas this way :D
Garry.

Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help............... :D
teazer
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Re: X750h!

Post by teazer »

They aint fake if they're real.

i.e. weld them on and make them work as best you can.
750ynot
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Re: X750h!

Post by 750ynot »

There is a nice thick bed of ally around the cylinders.

I would imagine that you would need to have more piston to bore clearance too, to allow for more heat expansion in the bores ?

AFAIK all air cooled engines need extra clearance or they will lock up as it gets hot.

I wonder if filling the voids with ally weld and then cutting out your own fins is an option ?

just random thoughts.
Tony
teazer
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Re: X750h!

Post by teazer »

Welding would work but distortion would follow like night follows day.

Why not just start again with a block of alloy and carve out new ports and change the head to a billet head and make the whole thing look more like an A75. You could also add reed blocks and exhaust power valves like someone did with a GT1000 some years ago. German I think, but not 100% sure.

Or instead of a billet block, cast one and cast the liners or plate the bores. Follow Brett deStoop's path.

Or take the easy way and cast or machine some faux fins like say a Honda Shadow. It's all been done before, so it isn't impossible. Well it might be for most of us but we have confidence that you can pull it off.

And why stick to 736cc? go big or go home as they say.

Not that it would be consistent with the original intent, but what's a little project creep between friends?
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garry55
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Re: X750h!

Post by garry55 »

750ynot wrote: Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:30 pm There is a nice thick bed of ally around the cylinders.

I would imagine that you would need to have more piston to bore clearance too, to allow for more heat expansion in the bores ?

AFAIK all air cooled engines need extra clearance or they will lock up as it gets hot.

I wonder if filling the voids with ally weld and then cutting out your own fins is an option ?

just random thoughts.
Not too sure about the extra piston to bore gap - Wiseco, for example, sell pistons that fit both the T500 and GT750 engines. And I think they know their pistons!
Your suggestion on filling the voids and machining fins is good - shows you are as mad as what I am :D - but I need bigger fins. And more of them.
Garry.

Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help............... :D
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garry55
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Re: X750h!

Post by garry55 »

teazer wrote: Mon Dec 12, 2022 7:56 pm Welding would work but distortion would follow like night follows day.

Why not just start again with a block of alloy and carve out new ports and change the head to a billet head and make the whole thing look more like an A75. You could also add reed blocks and exhaust power valves like someone did with a GT1000 some years ago. German I think, but not 100% sure.

Or instead of a billet block, cast one and cast the liners or plate the bores. Follow Brett deStoop's path.

Or take the easy way and cast or machine some faux fins like say a Honda Shadow. It's all been done before, so it isn't impossible. Well it might be for most of us but we have confidence that you can pull it off.

And why stick to 736cc? go big or go home as they say.

Not that it would be consistent with the original intent, but what's a little project creep between friends?
you really love playing the Devil's advocate, don't you :D

I had the front engine mounts welded to the cylinder block for the Steam Triple project and there was zero distortion. As you well know, the GT750 barrel is a hefty chunk of metal.

Casting is way out of my league - both technically and financially. I work with files, hacksaws, drills and sheer bloody-mindedness.

Your next suggestion is right on the money! The idea came to me when I remembered how the motor of a Kawasaki H2 big scale plastic kit (produced in France by Heller) was assembled. I am part-way through doing the necessary drawings to submit for the water-jet cutting of several sets of fins of differing dimensions (barrel, head and rocker cover). If I get the drawings right, the fins will be a very close fit to the outer contours of the existing barrel and will be welded to it (on the underside - don't want the welds on show!) with spacer blocks welded in between. The fins will be 3mm thick aluminium and will be shot blasted prior to being attached to the barrel to reproduce a "cast" finish. Fin spacing is 8mm. If you check a Suzuki T500 barrel, the fins are 3mm thick and 8mm apart. What a coincidence!

I don't need a big-bore motor for this application. The X75 fuel tank only holds 3 US gallons of fuel - no point in trying to empty it any quicker!
Garry.

Inside every standard Kettle is a bloody good engine crying for help............... :D
750ynot
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Re: X750h!

Post by 750ynot »

garry55 wrote: Tue Dec 13, 2022 2:57 pm
750ynot wrote: Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:30 pm There is a nice thick bed of ally around the cylinders.

I would imagine that you would need to have more piston to bore clearance too, to allow for more heat expansion in the bores ?

AFAIK all air cooled engines need extra clearance or they will lock up as it gets hot.

I wonder if filling the voids with ally weld and then cutting out your own fins is an option ?

just random thoughts.
Not too sure about the extra piston to bore gap - Wiseco, for example, sell pistons that fit both the T500 and GT750 engines. And I think they know their pistons!
Your suggestion on filling the voids and machining fins is good - shows you are as mad as what I am :D - but I need bigger fins. And more of them.

I haven't explained what I mean correctly, I mean the piston bore clearance that is set by the person that bores the cylinders, I would say worth checking what the clearance is for the 500 and using that clearance as it will be air cooled, or at least ask Wiseco if they are what you are going to use, you don't want it nipping up because of too small clearance after all the work your putting in, I know that piston clearance is different for air cooled and water cooled engines, just check it out I say, never assume anything, it always comes back to bite you in the bum.
Tony
asco58
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Re: X750h!

Post by asco58 »

Yes exactly, the pistons are the same but in an air cooled engine they get hotter and expand more than a water cooled engine so when boring an air cooled cylinder you need to have a larger clearance to prevent heat seizures when the engine gets up to temperature.
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