Replacing the check valves

[steppe]

Hi all..

As i removed the oilpump from my gt550L, i took off the spider and did a leak test, and yes, i have 2 weepers.
Doing my homework on the forum i came across the kawasaki check valves and their good reputation.
They are still available at cmsnl.
Now my question: how do i attach them to the original oil lines of the spider?
Cant find the neccesary info..

Thanks in advance
Steppe

[teazer]

the way the lines are manufactured is simple but now that the lines are old and hard, it's not simple to replace the check valves. In essence, the line is pushed over the barbed end of the check valve and held in place with a steel band.

That band has to be eased back up the line away from the check valve and then the end of the line has to be heated to soften it and then pull it back off the valve. Someone was selling replacement check valves on ebay a little while back or use Kawasaki parts.

It's not uncommon for the valves to weep a little but they shouldn't drip or flow fast under gravity. I would flush them out in both directions first and see if that's enough to make them usable.

[steppe]

Thanks, teazer..
The two outer valves L and R both leaked empty within second when i took the spider out..
I blowed some brake cleaner down the lines and when i blow with my mouth some air down thru them there is passage both ways..
I can t find it but is there some documentation available somewhere?

[barney01]

Here is some help
https://youtu.be/FVYTi9W236w
More
https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/blog/2 ... ktomysuzy/

[steppe]

Allready thanks for the documentation and advice, Barney!
Just back from a very nice but cold camping trip in the lake district and now on with the winterworks on the 550.
I found a set of kawa checkvalves and they are underway!!
But as nothing comes easy in life, when removing the 4th old checkvalve from the spider i heard a slight crack (see attached photo).
Is there a way i can solve this?
The crack sits under where the steel cover comes.

[barney01]

First its important to note that oil is fed through the pipe at relatively low pressure.
I have heard that some cracks can be repaired by smearing araldite over them. It is also possible to purchase clear electrical shrink wrap another solution.
Likethis https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323756403022 ... media=COPY
Also read this post
viewtopic.php?t=12538
Good luck

[mick 63]

I repaired my spider using heat shrink , after reading Richards post , and its been ok so far no leaks .

[arthur]

Oh the joy of brittle plastic tube,
I had a problem with a leaking banjo fitting, the tube was so past it that the banjo would rotate if you twisted it round no wonder it leaked!
A trip to the local Lawnmower/chainsaw emporium to source some new Tygon tube and away we go
.As posted elsewhere it is possible to remove the banjo splice in the new tube and refit ,its a bit of a faff but the satisfaction of a little victory is grand
The new Tygon tube is so flexible I am toying with the idea of replacing all six lines( but then if it aint broke )

[Optedout]

If it ain’t broke.......it soon will be. Is that how it goes?

[asco58]

Oh the joy of brittle plastic tube,
I had a problem with a leaking banjo fitting, the tube was so past it that the banjo would rotate if you twisted it round no wonder it leaked!
A trip to the local Lawnmower/chainsaw emporium to source some new Tygon tube and away we go
.As posted elsewhere it is possible to remove the banjo splice in the new tube and refit ,its a bit of a faff but the satisfaction of a little victory is grand
The new Tygon tube is so flexible I am toying with the idea of replacing all six lines( but then if it aint broke )

Out of curiosity, what did you use to bond or attach the tygon tubing to the nylon tubing?