XR11/73

[garry55]

Dont need a brake light for our "daytime MOT". I'm hopeful that the HPI ignition relies on the taper of the original carnkshaft - after all, it was good enough for the way-heavier rotor !
Like your thinking on re-locating the alternator too. I've got a Kawasaki GPX750 alternator that uses belt drive - if I angle the carbs it will fit where the starter motor used to reside. Could maybe take a drive from the left-side, where the ignition is / was? Or, if there is room, off the end of the r/h crank?
Its something I dont need right now, but will pursue at a later date.

[Kettletimes3]

Providing the ignition rotor isn't heavy you wont need a keyway.
It can also make timing the motor easier.

[garry55]

Providing the ignition rotor isn't heavy you wont need a keyway.
It can also make timing the motor easier.

Thats just what I wanted to hear !
Anything for an easy life...........

[garry55]

ooops!

[garry55]

in readiness for the 17" rear wheel transplant, I set about measuring the standard ride height with the 18" GSXR wheel in situ using a piece of strip plastic



out with Gixxer wheel, in with the Aprilia RS250 wheel and Brembo caliper



not sure if you can see the "bend" in the plastic strip, but I'll make some new, shorter dog bones at work on Monday to restore the ride height to standard.



front wheel to fit tomorrow........

[garry55]

a few updates -



making the new front engine mounting............

firstly, the cylinder head plate. I Araldited an oversized piece of aluminium sheet to a spare cylinder head so it wouldn't move around whilst marking it out and drilling it........



the head plate mounting bolts are 8mm, whereas the holes for the cylinder head mounting sleeve bolts are 13mm. To get the holes as accurate as possible, I cut an old sleeve bolt down........



and used it to centre the 8.5mm drill bit thus...........



so that after a visit to the pillar drill...........



and a little bit of shaping (to clear the thermostat housing).....

[garry55]

I ended up with this...........



the L-section front upper cross-piece attached. This is it nestled in behind the steering head - the 3 coil packs will be mounted to this vertical surface.................



and here's the underside view - the front mounting brackets will be welded to this.........



and will pick up the rubber mounting that will be attached to the front of the new plate.........



like so.................









and the radiator too...........

[garry55]

the DIY dry-clutch disaster................

I've been thinking about it since BDK announced that their conversion would cost the wrong side of £3000.
Mine will probably never work, but at least I'll have some fun on my way to achieving abject failure.

an innocent, spare GT750 clutch basket ,,,,,,,,,,,,,



removing the rivets.......



the component parts of a GT750 clutch basket laid bare...........



I can throw away the 3 rivets and their bushings, the 6 springs, the backing plate and its thrust washer.
That's saved some weight already.........

I took my collection of clutch parts and a vague idea of what I wanted and presented it to the boss of a local specialist gear-cutting engineering company.
To my surprise, he was on board with it straight away. He recommended a few tweaks here and there, we consolidated the required measurements and I left without the clutch parts. He's hoping for a 4 week turnaround. That was in March - still waiting..............



NEVER tell an engineer you are not in a hurry to get it done............

with the clutch unit away for machining, I turned my attention to the clutch lifting mechanism. Those in the know know that the Kettle lifts its clutch pressure plate via a mechanism on the r/h side of the motor, rather than pushing it from the l/h side via push rods and bearings. So I set about making my own dry clutch unit.

First off, a Kettle clutch cover..........



suitably shortened..........



next to go, part of the clutch arm mechanism outer cover housing.............



which I had to do in 2 parts so as to leave the bit that has the hole for the clutch cable adjuster. Although the clutch operating arm return spring peg had to go too, as it's cast as part of the housing.....



drilled some holes, not for lightening purposes (though every little helps), but to promote airflow to the clutch basket. Those in the know know that the Kettle clutch sits inboard of the r/h crankcases, so will get no direct airflow as a dry unit and therefore will be prone to overheating........



cut a piece from the rear of the casing - this is where the air that is drawn into the clutch basket will be expelled and drilled a hole for the replacement clutch return spring post (which is a 6 mm cap head bolt)............



I may have to add some strengthening to the inside, around the actuator itself, but for now this is it......



tinkle tinkle...........

[garry55]

the dry-clutch hub and pressure plate - standard item on left,modified on right..............











best 40 quids-worth of engineering I've had done

[garry55]

'77 GS750 gear set from the USA - a bit of shaft and cog swapping and thats the gearbox ratios sorted, plus the GS input shaft is 6mm longer than the GT's which helps claw back most of the extra 8mm I need for the dry-clutch conversion.
Only snag is the spacing of the bearings is out by 1.5mm - may have to machine the bearing face to get it to fit snugly.
Rolling chassis + motor now at Mick Abbey's having it's pipes fabricated.