Non charging issues

[PaulD738]

Well I owe a debt of gratitude to you lot on here for putting up with me over the last few weeks with this saga after diagnosing the duff rotor I managed to obtain an exchange reconditioned one from a fellow Kettle club member who lives in the next town. After fitting the rotor and a quick check with the multimeter (14v) I took the old girl for a 30 mile run out, returning in the dark with the lights on with no problems apart from a stiff throttle action (oil needed methinks)
So thanks to all that contributed and I dare say it won't be long before I'm back wanting to know sum at else

[Alan H]

no problems apart from a stiff throttle action (oil needed methinks)

More exercise with the right hand and build the muscles up a bit methinx...............

[PaulD738]

no problems apart from a stiff throttle action (oil needed methinks)

More exercise with the right hand and build the muscles up a bit methinx...............

I can't possibly think wot your on about Fred! unless it's another one of those weird Yorkshire traditions

[canaletto5]

Well I owe a debt of gratitude to you lot on here for putting up with me over the last few weeks with this saga after diagnosing the duff rotor I managed to obtain an exchange reconditioned one from a fellow Kettle club member who lives in the next town. After fitting the rotor and a quick check with the multimeter (14v) I took the old girl for a 30 mile run out, returning in the dark with the lights on with no problems apart from a stiff throttle action (oil needed methinks)
So thanks to all that contributed and I dare say it won't be long before I'm back wanting to know sum at else

Fantastic news Paul. Bill and Alan have done you proud. Happy Kettling! Kev

[PaulD738]

You played your part too Kev, thank you again for the rectifier

[canaletto5]

You played your part too Kev, thank you again for the rectifier

Put it in your bits box, you never know. Kev

[stinkywheels]

I have a GT550 A - American import to which has just stopped charging. The 2015 postings on the subject have been very helpful.
The alternator is Kokusan version.
Appreciate any help.
I would welcome if anybody can confirm to me:
1. Rotor
With the brushes removed I have measured 0.6 ohms across the slip rings inclusive of 0.3 ohms for the leads. Manuals and peoples experience say it it should be between 2 to 5 ohms. There is a circuit between the sliprings when continuity tested. Is the low resistance acceptable or is it a sign that the rotor windings have problem and possibly causing an insufficient magnetic field to be generated.

2. I have not tested the voltage out put of the alternator when running but testing all 3 winding resistance at the plug and to earth all check out ok so I believe the stator is serviceable. Can anybody advise the easiest/best place to measure the AC voltage with the engine running - I understand I should see approx 20V AC.

3. I have tested the voltage regulator and there is no continuity on the VR coil so I believe the VR has failed. Has anybody a view/experience of fitting Electrex World replacement Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.

Regards
Paul

[Alan H]

Have another read though this thread especially pages 3 + 4.
Remember that if you unplug the rectifier under the right panel, you have to link the green wire so there is power to the rotor. Or just run a fused wire from battery + to the green wire that goes to the rotor.
If there is no power to the rotor, the alternator cannot work as the rotor is basically an electromagnet that is regulated by the regulator.

[stinkywheels]

Evening Alan
Really appreciate your help.

Do you have a view regarding the rotor between slip rings measuring less than 1 ohm with the sliprings having continuity. I have read the winding resisatnce should be between 2 to 5 ohms. With the rotor measuring low resistance would this account for the alternator circuit not charging the battery. The regulator, rectifier and stator all seem to check out ok and the battery was new 2 years ago.

Many Thanks
Paul

[Alan H]

Well, I've never had one that low between slip rings, so all I can suggest there is to check the output from the 3 yellow wires that go from the alternator to the rectifier, and if you get over 20 volts (engine running), then the battery should charge. If the resistance test is from slipring to earth (or rotor body), then it's knackered.
Best test for alternator output is to unplug the rectifier from the socket next to it, then start the engine and test from any two of the three yellows in the socket still on the bike. You'll need to be on ~ volts for that as it's alternating current, of course. Any pair (1/2, 1/3, 2/3) should give the same voltage. Don't worry about the voltage being high as there's no load on it.
Here's more charging info - viewtopic.php?f=13&t=12685 - if you need a rectifier, I have some and I can do a 'plug & play' if required.