electronic ignition

[teazer]

Some of us are fans of certain systems and dislike/distrust others.

Boyer Bransden and Pirhana/Newtronics are very old designs. It doesn't mean they are bad, but they might benefit from upgrades. Accent is a modern system in terms of circuit design and manufacture. I had one bike with Newtronics and it seems to work OK but was a little flimsy in some regards. I have used a home brewed Dyna system on a couple of 750s and fitted an Accent system to my last build.

Dyna was probably the biggest fattest spark but it seems to suck electrons out of the battery. I'd use that or an Ignitech CDI system on a race bike.

But back to your Boyer wiring. Hopefully you worked it out from the link to the Boyer wiring diagram, but just in case you are still struggling with it, this is how it looks to me like:
The Yellow on Boyer connects to and Orange lead (switched 12v). At the coils there is a six pin connector as stock. Three of the pins are orange (power) and the other three connect to the points on the OEM system. On your new loom there will be that six pin connector which brings power to the coils and at the "electrical panel" end, there should be a 4 pin connector that the points connect to.

Here's where it gets tricky. In place of the points sub harness, you need two wires from the "black box" to the pickups. I would suggest that you buy a 2 pin connector and make up a new sub harness to the pickups if the one that was on the bike is a mess.

On the Boyer system all three coils fire at the same time, so you need a new sub harness to connect the green leads on the "black box" to the electrical panel socket that the points harness used to plug into. That way you don't need to hack into the harness except to get a switched 12v orange connection. You can do that at the rear brake switch which is close to where the black box is situated and is easy to access.

Of course I could be wrong with all that, but that's how it looks from where I'm sitting. If you have any questions, please ask.

[xr738]

With a bit of though and experience it is easier than it appears.
The 2 lines from the stator plate I connected to 2 of the 3 lines from the old breaker plate already in place. At the other end I pulled of connector coming from the stator plate and connected them with the green and blue lines from the black box. You don't have to destroy or dismantle the our pin connector just crimp on male or female connectors to the lines from the box. Same with its counterpart on board of the black central connector panel. Three connectors on the 3 green lines from the box. Don't forget to plug in the separte lines with the diodes first because the connectors go on to them. And then put them in or on the terminals normaly reserved for the line from the breaker. I think theres a sticker on the box saying which is which. Now only connecting the black line to ground and the yellow one to the battery. Sounds complicated but isn't. Just pulling off one four pin connector and looping in the black box with the appropriate terminals and conncting the stator to lines already in place.

To look it up Boyer has plan on its website. Look for instructions for kit 83. the plan for the Suzukis is on the last page.

[Mr Bonehead]

Hi captainblue,I know you said you followed the instructions but I have one the same fitted on mine and have the pictures for fitting showing the wire colours and positions ,I can photo them and put a post on if you wish
Regards from France