A friend has the opportunity to buy a rough but complete 750K at a bargain price as it's from a relation. However! there is a problem, the bike is taxed (tax free of course) mot'd and insured so he took it out for a run and it seems to be overheating when riding up long inclines and when riding with the throttle wide open. While cruising down A roads and on small throttle openings it seems fine? He has tried running it with the thermostat removed but this made no difference? He reckons the radiator is clean but I've told him I'll have a look at that for him to rule that out. I'm thinking the water pump may be on its way out and want to know if it's possible to replace it without removing the motor from the frame and stripping the thing down? I'm thinking of running the motor with the rad removed and letting it suck clean water from a bowl to see if the pump is doing owt? do you reckon this will work?
I've never stripped a kettle motor so I'm fishing in the dark here.
Water pump query
- PaulD738
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Water pump query
They're rubbish them Jap bikes lad they won't last five minutes! you want to get yourself a nice Royal Enfield!
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A quote from my old dad
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- BAZ
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Re: Water pump query
If the water pump fails it usally leaks oil or water through the breather it is unlikley that it would cause overheating, you can remove it in the frame but will be well stuck after 40 years so you would need a slide hammer to remove. my money would be on the radiator. cheers BAZ
- Alan H
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Re: Water pump query
If he needs to ride at full throttle, there's summat else wrong.
Or just slow down a bit and drop a gear to let the engine work better.
Mind you, it's an early model. Just saying.
Of course, you could just BACK flush the rad and see what crap comes out.
Maybe the engine too. Hosepipe up the return tends to work. (Bike not owner.)
Or just slow down a bit and drop a gear to let the engine work better.
Mind you, it's an early model. Just saying.
Of course, you could just BACK flush the rad and see what crap comes out.
Maybe the engine too. Hosepipe up the return tends to work. (Bike not owner.)
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
- Waterbuffalo
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Re: Water pump query
You can take the pump cartridge out using a method I conjured up years ago that does not involve taking the engine out or splitting the cases. What I'd do first is to pull the lower cover off and see whats it got for an impeller.
Two strokes, its just that simple.
- PaulD738
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Re: Water pump query
Thanks Baz, Alan. I was intending to back flush the rad for him when he brings it around for me to have a looky see. The rad was fairly bunged up when I got my bike but a two hour soak with the rad filled full of phosphoric acid soon sorted that out As for the hosepipe up the owners outlet, I'm sure people pay good money for that
Will something like Holt's coolant flush damage the mechanical seal if I flush the whole system out?
Will something like Holt's coolant flush damage the mechanical seal if I flush the whole system out?
They're rubbish them Jap bikes lad they won't last five minutes! you want to get yourself a nice Royal Enfield!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
- PaulD738
- Posts: 3962
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:57 pm
- Location: Warrington Cheshire
Re: Water pump query
Thanks Alan, that was on my "to do list" for him alsoWaterbuffalo wrote:You can take the pump cartridge out using a method I conjured up years ago that does not involve taking the engine out or splitting the cases. What I'd do first is to pull the lower cover off and see whats it got for an impeller.
They're rubbish them Jap bikes lad they won't last five minutes! you want to get yourself a nice Royal Enfield!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
-
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Re: Water pump query
The mechanical seal is a graphite/stainless combo and is unlikely to be damaged by any commercial cleaner.
Allan and Baz raise good points.
I'd start with a radiator flush and after a refill and test run, if it's still running hot, drain the coolant and pull the pump cover off to see if the impeller is corroded.
Of course it could just be the gauge reading high and that could be from a faulty sensor or faulty gauge.
Allan and Baz raise good points.
I'd start with a radiator flush and after a refill and test run, if it's still running hot, drain the coolant and pull the pump cover off to see if the impeller is corroded.
Of course it could just be the gauge reading high and that could be from a faulty sensor or faulty gauge.