asco58 wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 4:33 pm
According to Suzuki, you turn the crankshaft anticlockwise, which is in the reverse direction of rotation.
Standing on the RHS(points side) of the bike, the crankshaft turns clockwise when the engine is running.
Therefore after setting the cylinder in question to TDC, you need to turn the crank anti-clockwise from the perspective of the RHS/points plate so that when the engine is running, the spark plug fires before the piston reaches TDC.
From the shop manual:
Timing.png
Thanks Asco58. It would seem that I have been turning the crank the wrong way for finding the ignition point. Bike runs fine though. I did think that the idea was to take up any slack in the points cam drive. Hence I find TDC by turning the crank in the direction it runs, and the same for the ignition point. The handbook does not set it out in the same way as the service manual, in fact as John points out, the handbook contradicts itself. The text says counter-clockwise, but the diagram shows clockwise. Apologies to John and Frank for my incorrect interpretation.
Paul
Currently without a GT, but looking
2003 Yamaha Fazer 600 Blue
2020 Triumph Street Twin Red
1968 BSA Bantam Sports Red
Harrymail wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 5:14 pm
The text says counter-clockwise, but the diagram shows clockwise.
I think what you and John said about them potentially using the GT380's picture again without changing it for the 550 is probably true.
I also find that the Haynes manual doesn't really highlight specific differences for the GT550 and is best suited for the GT380 so I've been using the shop manual mainly.
Never EVER turn the engine backwards with the nut on the points cam. On the 550 it'll loosen the nut for starters, just set the points gap, with crank past the relevantly marked timing mark so the points heel is on the high part of the cam, turn the nut clockwise on the 550 until the timing marks line up and the points should be just opening. R first, then C and lastly L.
Turn the 380 backwards and you have a good chance of breaking the plastic gear.
Harrymail wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 11:52 am
It's recommended to put a spanner on this side as it's directly on the crank.
No it isn't directly on the crank, there's a short stub shaft on 2 bearings in the clutch case. This has a cutaway that engages with a pin on the rh end of the crank. It can wear very slightly which is the other reason why the crank should always be turned in the normal direction of rotation.
Harrymail wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 11:52 am
It's recommended to put a spanner on this side as it's directly on the crank.
No it isn't directly on the crank, there's a short stub shaft on 2 bearings in the clutch case. This has a cutaway that engages with a pin on the rh end of the crank. It can wear very slightly which is the other reason why the crank should always be turned in the normal direction of rotation.
Thanks Alan. So I am turning the crank in the correct direction, from the correct side. The Suzuki information is definitely very confusing . At least the info I first gave John is correct, even if my explanation is a little wayward.
Currently without a GT, but looking
2003 Yamaha Fazer 600 Blue
2020 Triumph Street Twin Red
1968 BSA Bantam Sports Red