New Member
- canaletto5
- Posts: 5228
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:43 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
Re: New Member
That's really interesting. i had a set of barrels on my 550A which were exactly the same as yours. Higher studs at the back and four ports per barrel but iron lined, not Nikasil. It freaked me out so I sourced a set of Nikasils
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- Posts: 1620
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 12:58 am
- Location: Sunny Wales
Re: New Member
Looks like someone has plated the iron barrels.
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:54 pm
Re: New Member
They'll be rebored and new pistons so i'll stick with them Going to get a few things powder coated by a firm close to where i live,the frame and swing arm have already been done so hopefully in about 6 weeks i'll have everything back and start putting everything back together.
I'm in the process of doing others on the bike like polishing casings,forks and have stripped the clocks and putting new overlays as the originals were marked and not in great condition.I'm going to change the oil pump o ring seals and can anyone recommend what 2 stroke oil is best to use,i dont know whats in the tank at the moment only that its red and would it be best to empty it and clear the oil lines?
I'm in the process of doing others on the bike like polishing casings,forks and have stripped the clocks and putting new overlays as the originals were marked and not in great condition.I'm going to change the oil pump o ring seals and can anyone recommend what 2 stroke oil is best to use,i dont know whats in the tank at the moment only that its red and would it be best to empty it and clear the oil lines?
- Alan H
- Posts: 12110
- Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
- Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire
Re: New Member
Those barrels ended up on Mike Yeadon's 550 after it shat itself, and ran fine & quiet after they were fitted. The difference in porting was 2 extra Schneurle ports above the rear transfers which gave about 5hp increase on the later engines. It makes quite a bit of top end difference.canaletto5 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 10:48 pm That's really interesting. i had a set of barrels on my 550A which were exactly the same as yours. Higher studs at the back and four ports per barrel but iron lined, not Nikasil. It freaked me out so I sourced a set of Nikasils
PJME https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Cylinde ... eving.html do the resleeving.
If you aren't sure, get rid of it and put a decent semi synthetic 2t oil in. When I emptied the oil tank on the Earwig, there was a ball bearing blocking the outlet!
Make sure the lines are bled through. The little O rings are available on ebay for a couple of quid for a hundred, or Suzuki price is about a quid apiece!
I used Putoline TT light but they've stopped making it, and I won't use anything with 'scooter' in the name on principle.
I'll start with Rock oil next time I get to the suppliers.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:54 pm
Re: New Member
Ok thanks Alan i'll put new oil in
I've tried to put a pic in so will see if its worked.-
- Posts: 3120
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 7:33 pm
- Location: Prestatyn.Wales
Re: New Member
As you probably know oil is a much discussed and sometimes controversial subject. At the end of the day its a personal decision. They all work just make sure its motorcycle oil and not for lawnmowers!
My view is Rock oil injector fully synthetic. I've always used it since it was released.
However when i have a rebore i empty and refil the system with basic mineral oil. Thats because fully sythetic is too protective for a new engine preventing the bores and rings to wear together. Mineral oil will allow this whilst running in. Then i empty and refil back to fully synthetic.
Also mineral oil can cover all your piston crowns with black soot and it doesn't burn as clean as modern synthetic. I recently removed the head off my 550 after 16000 miles and the crowns were just lightly covered. If you ever het chance look at a race engine that used Castrol R. They have to be stripped and cleaned regularly.
So thats my take on it but its your bike and your choice
One last point never mix mineral and synthetic as a condition called 'glooping' occurs which is similar to clotting which will prevent free flow.
My view is Rock oil injector fully synthetic. I've always used it since it was released.
However when i have a rebore i empty and refil the system with basic mineral oil. Thats because fully sythetic is too protective for a new engine preventing the bores and rings to wear together. Mineral oil will allow this whilst running in. Then i empty and refil back to fully synthetic.
Also mineral oil can cover all your piston crowns with black soot and it doesn't burn as clean as modern synthetic. I recently removed the head off my 550 after 16000 miles and the crowns were just lightly covered. If you ever het chance look at a race engine that used Castrol R. They have to be stripped and cleaned regularly.
So thats my take on it but its your bike and your choice
One last point never mix mineral and synthetic as a condition called 'glooping' occurs which is similar to clotting which will prevent free flow.
NO SMOKE .......NO POKE
- stevewharton
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:01 am
- Location: Grimsby, Lincolnshire.
Re: New Member
Dav57 I've tried to put a pic in so will see if its worked.[/quote wrote:
Hi Dave, yep the pic worked okay nice bike you have there, and I do like the seat
Look, my paintwork hasn't got "Fish scales" they're "Dragon scales" right!!! However, after some thought, I will accept "Black Marlin" or "Swordfish", but definitely not "Haddock" or "Cod".
- slosher
- Posts: 901
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: Walsall,Black Country
Re: New Member
Do agree there Barney that it's your bike and your choice What i have found over the years is back in the day the Mineral 2stroke oil would leave hard baked carbon crust almost everywhere piston crown's baffles etc,today's Mineral oil don't so i'm happy to use today's Mineral 2stroke oil.
GT750L
GT550L
TL1000 97s
T140V
Loctite Trained Engineer (since having the Bonnie)
GT550L
TL1000 97s
T140V
Loctite Trained Engineer (since having the Bonnie)
- PaulD738
- Posts: 3963
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:57 pm
- Location: Warrington Cheshire
Re: New Member
slosher wrote: ↑Sun Jan 24, 2021 2:18 pm Do agree there Barney that it's your bike and your choice What i have found over the years is back in the day the Mineral 2stroke oil would leave hard baked carbon crust almost everywhere piston crown's baffles etc,today's Mineral oil don't so i'm happy to use today's Mineral 2stroke oil.
+1 on mineral oil. Ive use it in all my two strokes and in my present T500. As Rock oil is just five minutes away from me I use their Rock oil road mineral. Good quality stuff that doesn’t smoke that much. I tried semi synthetic in my Kettle but it ran a rough as a very rough thing. Switched it back on mineral & it was fine. You pays yer money & makes yer choice
They're rubbish them Jap bikes lad they won't last five minutes! you want to get yourself a nice Royal Enfield!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
A quote from my old dad
I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:54 pm
Re: New Member
Ok thanks guys
After fitting new overlays on the clocks one of the glass fronts cracked
Have looked online but not come across any only the older clocks replacement which are perspex and not the correct diameter and thickness,has anyone come across the same problem or do i have to source an old clock and get the glass out of it?
After fitting new overlays on the clocks one of the glass fronts cracked
Have looked online but not come across any only the older clocks replacement which are perspex and not the correct diameter and thickness,has anyone come across the same problem or do i have to source an old clock and get the glass out of it?