Project X

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Alan H
Posts: 12104
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: Project X

Post by Alan H »

I can recommend cerakote. I had a Piper 3-1 done a light titanium grey about 6 years ago, and a set of spannies & downipes done 'cerakrome' about 5 years ago, and they still all look well.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
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PaulD738
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:57 pm
Location: Warrington Cheshire

Re: Project X

Post by PaulD738 »

Alan H wrote: Wed May 12, 2021 7:46 pm I can recommend cerakote. I had a Piper 3-1 done a light titanium grey about 6 years ago, and a set of spannies & downipes done 'cerakrome' about 5 years ago, and they still all look well.
Not cheap though? I was quoted £365 to coat the two silencers on my Kat in gloss black! Needless to say I told em to shove it :roll:
They should be black chrome but finding anyone who will do it and the cost ruled that option out.
They're rubbish them Jap bikes lad they won't last five minutes! you want to get yourself a nice Royal Enfield!
A quote from my old dad 8-)

I started out with nothing and I’ve got most of it left!
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Alan H
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Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: Project X

Post by Alan H »

About £200 for the spannies & pipes and just over half that for the 3-1, so quite acceptable I thought. The spannies were almost new and the Piper was cleaned up before they shot blasted it.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
madforitkev
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
Location: Poole

Re: Project X

Post by madforitkev »

Now i've got the oven and dishwasher , aka curing cabinet and parts washer and a spray booth, aka sheets in the garage, I am all good.

Colour swatches arrived yesterday. One more dyno run, mess with throttle bodies for a bit and it comes apart for painting.

:D
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
madforitkev
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
Location: Poole

Re: Project X

Post by madforitkev »

Any thoughts on a 'normal'running temp for a kettle?

I know that stat is supposed to activate around 80C.

Mine seems to run at about 72-75C but that seems about 10C too hot?

Top tip of the day......Do not try to run resistor-less spark plugs with a EFI system, Way too much noise!!!!

I blew a plug and accidentally fitted an old B8ES instead of a BR8ES and couldn't work out why it was misfiring. New contact lenses obviously not up to much :shock:
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
madforitkev
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:21 pm
Location: Poole

Re: Project X

Post by madforitkev »

Some of you may have seen on another post that I have been playing with cooling.

I don't really want the Rad fans running a lot (too many amps) and my run temp is about 10C too high (75C ).

I have tried messing with the pump speed and faster is definitely better and I tried using engine Ice as a coolant (use it my my race bike) but that only made a couple of degrees difference.

So two new things to play with.

First is an additional small hidden radiator up under the head stock area. I found a nice big bore Aprilla Tuarag 125 oil cooler and it fits lovely on the back of the name grille.
newrad.jpg
Problem is I cant fit it until the strip down when I can make space behind it due to the ECU move to the tail plan.

Also I am not a big fan of more plumbing so I am also going to try some rad scoops.

Plan is to make some scoops that then duct air through the frame and out again near the rear rad. The VRF has nice hollow frame members and will duct nicely (clearly any holes need to be lined to stop frame stressing/cracking!).

So I modeled some mounts in CAD and did cardboard mockups.
scoops.jpg
I will get them water jet cut in Ali and welded up then carbon wrap them. :D

Last bit of fettling this week has been to add the oil pump actuation arm to the throttle bodies.
TBoil lever.jpg
Works nicely and allows for a bit of adjustment.
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
teazer
Posts: 1035
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: Chicago

Re: Project X

Post by teazer »

What temperature does a normal GT750 run at? If the thermostat opens at 80c, then it suggests that the moor was designed to operate above that temp.

High performance 2 strokes are designed to operate at lower temps, but that doesn't always mean that it will be ideal for a good old GT750. I would run it and see how hot it gets when pushed hard.

Another thought is that the Britten ran an underseat radiator and had very small water passages and didn't overheat so was that because the air flow was faster - hard to run at 160 on the A25 to test that idea...or was the air ducted more effectively, or didn't it matter.

It would be good to know what temp a GT runs at normally and use that as your guide. You could add additional coolness later if needed.
madforitkev
Posts: 292
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Location: Poole

Re: Project X

Post by madforitkev »

Teazer,

Its a fair point and the thermostatic is designed to trigger at 82c with it fully open at 95C, so presumably it is designed to run somewhere in that range.

Which kinda ties up. A hard run generates around 77C, so maybe I am being over paranoid and referencing modern 2 strokes too much which run at the lower (65C) temp range?

Good news is a few road runs and it is holding its own and even without the carbs dialed in properly, seems have more power.

Dyno again in a few weeks.

I will probably still do the ducting just for fun......
Honest baby....this is probably the cheapest bike I have ever bought!!
teazer
Posts: 1035
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: Chicago

Re: Project X

Post by teazer »

Ducts will definitely help above a 100MPH...


And can't hurt anything below that.


If the thermostat is fully open at say 95 degrees, it's safe to assume that a stock kettle runs closer to 100c than 90c and way above 60-65. Let's not forget that the radiator is pressurized so that it doesn't boil when it gets a little over 100c.

This is the curse of data. When we didn't have a means to measure all that sort of stuff, we didn't worry about it. Now we have more data, we don't necessarily have a frame of reference within which to interpret that data or to put it into context and turn it into information we can use.
burgs
Posts: 70
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:07 pm
Location: Hunter Valley NSW Australia

Re: Project X

Post by burgs »

Hi
Running too cool can be as bad as running too hot, as Teaser said use the original thermostat specifications as a guide, another thing would be to try and find out what the TR750s run at since you are looking at higher output.
My No.2 has a new thermostat fitted and compared to No.1 it runs right on the middle of the gauge when warmed up, where No. 1 runs on just above the first marks?
Might fit a new thermostat to No.1 and see what it reads when warmed up.
Most of my experience is with big diesel engines and running the correct temperatures is critical to long life and best output from these engines.
Too cold they don't perform, not enough heat for good output, oil runs too cold and doesn't lubricate at its best.
My little TR250 is much the same, it runs much better after a good warm up, expansion cambers seem to light up better :D .
Burgs
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