Kettle Clinic

Hey Gary,

Hows it going? Any progress with the alternator issue?

You might have notice on the thread, but I am fuel injecting mine now. Its really interesting to say the least.

I had my first dyno run and I know where I am lacking so I'm modifying the skull squish bands and as soon as we are out of lockdown, i'm off to the dyno again.

Hope you get the belt sorted..

Nice job sir. I spent a fortune in time and money having my frame built on this particular Kettle project. Quicker and cheaper your method . Like it .

Filth.

That is NICE!!!

What engine paint did you use. I am testing several options and cant find a good one. I really want a dark grey...

Sorry Gary...post hijacking!!

madforitkev wrote: ↑Sat Jan 09, 2021 5:52 pm Hey Gary,

Hows it going? Any progress with the alternator issue?

You might have notice on the thread, but I am fuel injecting mine now. Its really interesting to say the least.

I had my first dyno run and I know where I am lacking so I'm modifying the skull squish bands and as soon as we are out of lockdown, i'm off to the dyno again.

Hope you get the belt sorted..

Hi Kev
yes - following your thread with interest. I still have the T595 injectors and MicroSquirt controller somewhere in the garage, but your endeavours are putting me off digging them out any time soon!
All looks a bit complicated to a non-techy like me. I'm playing with power valves at the moment. And T500 barrels.
Alternator mod is coming on well - I have machined 3 x internal "tunnels" (if it works I have 2 other motors that will need the conversion) which house the bearings that support the drive shaft. The stainless steel drive shafts are away being made (beyond my limited lathe experience) and the drive sprockets are being bored and threaded to fit their respective drive shafts. Once I get the shaft and sprockets back, I can attach the alternator (150w max output) and get a "custom" drive chain made for it.
Then I have to devise a way of locating the drive chain guides and that's it !
Oh - apart from milling the outside of the outer cover down flat and getting a blanking plate welded on and milling the inside to remove several unwanted protrusions that prevent it from fitting.
Specials - who needs 'em?

Gary

I probably missed it but why the belt alternator?

I started going down the GT185 dynostarter route to save space and allow for a LHS ignition but now with EFI have gone full circle because I need more amps and the crank trigger wheel fits nicely over the starter clutch, Its the fuel pumps that draw the power.......so back to standard alternator again but actually it is the right thing to do and as usual other bits have moved around that weren't quite perfect and now they are so that's good.

I can explain EFI over a beer one say (if I get it working)

Keep posting!!!

It's not a belt driven alternator - it's driven by a very small chain running over 2 x 11 tooth sprockets. The problem with belt drive is getting a belt manufactured for a reasonable price. The chain is cheap as chips and available "off-the-shelf".
I think we would need more than a pint for me to understand the electronics required for FI - either that or you are a very slow drinker!
Liking the fly-by-wire throttle too.
Crack on!

Filth wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:13 pm Nice job sir. I spent a fortune in time and money having my frame built on this particular Kettle project. Quicker and cheaper your method . Like it .

Thanks!
Yours isn't too shabby either............

Just a crazy thought but why not just fit a high output crank mounted alternator. Ducati 3 phase generate around 450 watts IIRC and are more or less the same size as GT but thinner. I was thinking Duc because they are not as high revving as say a GSXR750 and might be a better match.

Good thinking Teazer, but I am trying to get the motor as narrow as possible.
So by placing the alternator behind the cylinder block allows me to run a HPI ignition system on the right side and just the water pump gears and alternator drive sprockets on the left side.
Don't think I can get a streetable GT motor any slimmer without sacrificing a charging system.
But I would like to be proved wrong!

Another starter motor cover modified - this time to allow the recently arrived from the USA, genuine OKO flat slide carbs to fit..........