Temperature sender in GT750 J

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Gixxer18
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon May 11, 2020 3:05 pm

Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Gixxer18 »

Evening Gents, And a happy New Year to you. Having rebuilt my engine over the holidays it's back in the frame, and almost ready to start, but not filled with fluids yet, and I still have to set the ignition timing.
My question is easy, but I'm really looking for assurance, before I can fill the cooling system with antifreeze and coolant, and distilled water; what should I use to seal the threads of the Temperature sender (Thermo Gauge) and the Thermo switch for the fan in the Head?
Should I use PTFE tape, or a thread sealing compound Iike Loctite?
I know that the sealing compound Bars Leaks in the cooling system will take care of any weeping, but how do you seal from leaks and maintain electrical conductivity at the same time? What do you guys use? Is there a more modern or better product than Bars Leaks? I've actually got the genuine Suzuki pellets Suzuki LEAK END part #99000-24130 called for in the FSM, But wondering if you recommend anything else?
Thanks.
Nigel.
Kettletimes3
Posts: 1574
Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 12:58 am
Location: Sunny Wales

Re: Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Kettletimes3 »

I use ptfe tape or liquid.
Gixxer18
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon May 11, 2020 3:05 pm

Re: Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Gixxer18 »

Thanks for that Kettletimes3. That's now installed, and I'm ready to go, when I can get the Starter solenoid to work! It checks out alright with a battery off the bike, so the problem is in the handlebar switch or wiring.....
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Alan H
Posts: 11174
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Alan H »

Don't forget the 'kill' switch.
Power goes from battery, through fuse on red to ignition switch, to right handlebar kill switch and start button, back to solenoid.on yellow/green. If you've powder coated the frame, make sure there's a good earth. I always run a 'daisy chain' from battery - to solenoid, rectifier, indicator relay and regulator. Do it nice with heatshrink over the wire/ring connector joints and it looks oem!
Easy check, use a short wire from battery + to solenoid yellow/green but make sure the bike is out of gear first! :P
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
Gixxer18
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon May 11, 2020 3:05 pm

Re: Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Gixxer18 »

Thank you for those words of wisdom!, I shall Ohm out the switches on the handlebar; that’s the only place that can cause the intermittent problem; since as you suggested, a jumper to the Yellow/green wire spun the starter.
Regards
Nigel.
User avatar
Alan H
Posts: 11174
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:38 am
Location: Wombwell, Republic of South Yorkshire

Re: Temperature sender in GT750 J

Post by Alan H »

The kill switch (orange from ignition switch) allows power through to alternator rotor (via regulator), coils (on orange or sometimes orange/white) and start solenoid when on.
If you switch the ignition on and note how bright the neutral light is, then switch the kill switch on, if it's ok, the neutral light should 'just' go dimmer.
Does the horn, indicators and brake light work? That shows the orange out from the ignition switch is ok.
Of course, there's 2 orange wires out (and 2 reds in) to the ignition switch, but they 'shouldn't' be able to be fitted wrong, unless you've got an americanised (hacked) harness.
The second circuit red in, orange out at the ignition switch is the ones with bullet connectors near the switch (in the headlamp) and is for lights, not the 4 way plug & socket which is for everything else.
Proof that four strokes are over complicated
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