Accent Electronic Ignition on a GT550A

[Laurence]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the replies this forum has been so great on both my restorations (GT380A and GT550A)
I have both the plungers out of the carbs and have sent a mail to the email address.

Do I check the coil resistance with the ignition switched off ?

Yes my plugs are also very carbon fouled particularly on the left and centre cylinders and the right less so . They go from being brand new to very carbon fouled in the space of a couple of minutes test running on the bench.

Thanks again for the great responses

Will let you know how it goes once the choke plunger seals are done.

Cheers
Laurence

[Laurence]

Hi Guys

Have just checked the coils resistance with ignition off and have the following readings

On the Primary all three coils are between 4.8 to 5.0

On the secondary they as follows with NGK 5K resistance plug caps on

Left 16.8, Centre 16.5 and Right 17.2

Do these readings sound ok.

Cheers
Laurence

PS Choke Plungers have been posted off

[asco58]

Your readings seem to be within the specs so the coils should be ok.

[Laurence]

That’s good news thanks for confirming.
Cheers
Laurence

[canaletto5]

If your plugs are fouling up with carbon that quickly then the mixture is too rich. If it was a problem with no spark then they would be very wet and smell strongly of petrol

Your choke plungers may well be your problem or there may be a problem with your idle jets. Either they are tuned too rich via the mixture screws, or the wrong size or your float heights aren't right and allowing too much fuel through. I really think you have a fuel problem, not spark

[Alan H]

When was the last time the engine actually got used on the road as against in the garage?
What plugs are you using? Maybe put a set of B6ES in to help, and make sure the exhausts aren't clogged. 6s won't cause problems unless you run wot for extended periods.
Kev has some good suggestions too (previous post.)

[Laurence]

Hi Guys
Thanks for the replies .
The plugs I am using are B8ES

The last time it was run on the road was late summer last year when the problem first started. It is not possible to ride on the road as only the right cylinder seems to be running properly. I had to trailer it home . When I got it on the bench to investigate the electronic ignition packed up and I had no sparks at all . That’s all sorted now (see above) but unfortunately I still have the same problem. All exhaust pipes have been off and checked but no blockages found . Carbs have been off numerous times and all jets and float levels checked and cleaned. Coils seem ok when checking resistance.
Current theory is the float plunger seals as the problem is the left and centre cylinders, so the float plungers are off having the seals replaced.
Previous to this the bike had run faultlessly for 5 years since I restored it (after a period of getting it to run just right with lots of jet switching)

So it’s a bit of a head scratcher.
But with this forums help I am sure we will get it solved .

Cheers
Laurence

[Laurence]

Hi Guys

I got the choke plungers back at the end of last week with the new seals fitted, so was able to fit them over the weekend. I gave the carbs another once over and re-checked the float heights. I also fitted a new set of B8ES plugs.
The engine seemed to start better , but it still backfires on the left cylinder and hisses ( like a backfire but without the bang) on the left or centre. It won’t tick over as clunks and dies if you go below 3000 rpm . At 4000 rpm it runs a bit better but still not right and at 5000 rpm and above it seems to run nearly normal . But as you then drop down into the 4000 rpm range it will backfire and hiss and sound rough and from below 3000 rpm it will die with a clunk .

The left and centre exhaust headers are hotter than before but not as hot as the right.

From left to right we have the left cylinder followed by the centre and then the right. This is after three short run sessions on the bench (don’t like to run it too long as it sounds so rough).

So in summary the replaced choke plunger seals have made it better and there is clearly more ignition going on in the left and centre than before as the headers are hotter and there is not a lot of oil and fuel mixture coming out of the drain holes in the exhausts like there was before.

But the original problem is still there

As always any advice would be welcome as I do not know what to try now

Cheers
Laurence

[Laurence]

Hi all
I thought I would refurbish the set of coils I got from DK's . So have refurbished them with new HT leads and some NGK plug caps . I tested them as per asco58's earlier helpful post . The Primary are all 4.7 to 4.9 but I cannot getting a reading on the secondary at all either with plug caps on or without which is puzzling . The bike has the same issue with these set of coils on and perhaps runs a bit worse than my original set of coils .
So seem to be getting nowhere

Thinking that perhaps there is still a problem with the electronic ignition is terms of perhaps an intermittent spark on the left /centre cylinders . So am thinking that perhaps I should get a strobe gun to check this theory before I go back to UWE . Any suggestions on which one to get ?

Also perhaps re fit some points , but have only got the old set that came with the bike originally as a non runner. But if it at least runs better with these then it would point to the Accent ignition as it's been 3 months since I got my "fixed" set back from UWE and I still can not get it to run right on all cylinders.

Any advice or suggestions would be welcome .
Cheers
Laurence

[teazer]

those plugs are very interesting. The right looks to be way too clean, but leaving that for a moment, left and center are blacker than we might expect to see even for a gentle run on the bench.

I would start with Alan's suggestion - just don't tell anyone I said that... - and fit some hotter plugs to try to get them to self clean. Hotter (lower NGK number) will run hotter and that might be enough to get it running even though it isn't a fix for the underlying issue.

It might still be carbs with the FUEL levels too high or an air jet clogged allowing it to pull in raw fuel.

It might also be excessive oil from weeping check valves. If the motor hasn't been run hard for a while, there could be an excessive amount of oil in the bottom end. try to remove the SRIS valves and drain the crankcases.