mutilated engine

[Kijmpe]

Bought myself a nice pink J-model witrh the intention to get it running and ride it as it is.
But then I found out some numnut had tried his mechanic skills on the engine...

This is how I bought it

Found the previous owner had shares at loctite...

Parts were missing...

Or stuck

Broken and pieces left

Or just pushed out...

[Kijmpe]

So I started to do the nescessary repairs .
On the waterpipen at the front of the engine one bolt probably had broken of so they decided to convert the M6 thread into an 8 mil thread and just cut the corner of the waterpipe.

Because I wanted to have the M6 thread recstored and in exactly the place where it is supposed to be I made an M8 aluminium screw and glued it in the M8 opening with Loctite (I have shares too).

Then I made a drilling template of a 12 mm thick iron strip.

I then drilled a small hole to make sure I would stay in place, redrilled the template to the drillsize of an M6 helicoil and placed a helicoil.

Bought a used new waterpipe and again it is a geunuine fit!

Okay, for the purists: I do have the genuine screws but just used these to try it it fitted.

[Kijmpe]

When I bought the GT I found an exhaust bolt was missing.
I took the exhausts of and tried to screw one in and it worked.
So I assumed the thread was okay.
But upon taking a closer look I discovered the thread had been re-tapped out of centre with a piece of old bolt sill half in place!

I prefer all threads to be from the original size and in the right place so I first used an M8 machine tap to make sure the "out-of-centre" thread was running smooth.
Then I took a small chisel and carefully removed the old piece of bolt.

On an 8mm aluminium rod I cut M8 thread, glued it in the 'out-of-centre' thread and cut and grinded it of.

Then I made a another drilling template with a bushing suiteble and fitting in the exhaust port to keep everything in line.

First took a small 4 mm mill to make sure the new hole centered properly and then redrilled the template and exhaust thread an placed another M8 helicoil with Loctite to keep everything in place.

Works fine again!

[wardy]

thats a great "fix". well done.

[Kijmpe]

Thanks!
Got to admit I was very happy with the result and proud with the way I had solved the issue.

[Kijmpe]

Somehow a previous owner had taken the engine apart and was in a hurry getting it back together again.
In doing so he blindly threw the crankshaft back in, never checking the alignment of the (totally worn out) bearings with the 4 anti-rotation pins in the lower crankcase.

Resulting in 3 of them beeing pressed and pushed through the aluminium of the lower crankcase.

And one that happened to be a lucky shot:

View of one of the locating pins from the outside of the bottom case.

With a piece of broken aluminium from the crankcase:

Couldn't get them out with pliers nor with using a magnet.
I was able to punch 2 of the alignment pins back in from the outside up until they were removable.
Then I even had to first punch one alignment pin almost through (that really hurt) to get an opening on the outside of the crankcase to be able to punch it backto the inside to get it out!

Then I made the decision to again glue the little aluminium pieces back in place using some professional, heat and oil resistant construction glue.

Thena I re-fitted the pins with Loctite studlock (it's almost becoming a commercial here)

Again very happy with the result.

[Kijmpe]

Posted the wrong pic where I wanted to point out where the locating pin went through the cases.
Here is the right one:

See the little drop of oil and the pin pointed with the ballpoint pen.

[teazer]

Nice repair work. That motor certainly had a hard life. It's not uncommon to find the locating pins punched down into or out of the crankcases.

With the exhaust mount, I usually open the hole and have it welded and then drill and tap to size. The bottom hose connection bolt sheared off is also common and that one is hard to repair. Your solution is good.

Water pumps stick and fortunately they can be pressed out from above when the cases are split. Remember to apply grease to the O rings and the pump itself when you put it back together.

[Kijmpe]

Thanks Teazer.
I'm afraid the waterpump is already mounted with the engine almost finished.
I did oil the O-rings and pumphousing prior to the installation.
Hope it will be sufficient but actually I had planned just to riding the bike, not having to do all this again.

I did install a brand new waterpump so hope it will do it's job without leakage...

[teazer]

I hope so too, but sometimes the mechanical seal takes a while to bed in and seal properly. I am pretty sure that's why Suzuki recommend Barrs Leaks to stop them from leaking. Part of the stock seal is common on many bikes, but they typically use a ceramic seal instead of the stainless steel "bell" that Suzuki used back in the day.

I have tried the teflon seals but have had very poor results, so now I get the stainless part machined and use a modern mechanical seal.