water pump refurb kit

[mick 63]

heres some more photos of the repair kit i got from Crooks & the mechanical seal i was asking about,cheers Mick.

[mart]

Have a look at this web page Mick .
Supplies and Refurbishment
Gaskets and seals are available from several places, but even a dealer will often offer after market gasket sets which usually are provided by Athena p.l.c. in Italy. While the quality is fine, the actual sets themselves are a bit disappointing:
The top end kit includes the required gaskets but does not include the three o-rings which are also needed for the base of the cylinders, to be fitted under the base gasket which they do include
the 'full' gasket set does not include the o-ring needed for the drive shaft oil retainer plate, or for the gear shift indicator switch, and while it does include the small o-rings for the oil pump, it doesn't include any of the banjo bolt gaskets needed if you want to refurbish the connections on the oil distribution lines. As well, the o-ring supplied for the starter motor is thicker than the one fitted originally, making reassembly difficult .
the oil seal kits available from dealers, and places like Parts n' More do not include the oil seal (09284-16002) that was fitted in the A and B models, and which goes on the the end of the shift cam shaft underneath the gear indicator switch, or the seal for the clutch rod.
the water pump is supposedly not rebuildable, but most of the internal parts are available either as original Suzuki parts as they were used on the RE5, or in after market kits. I bought mine from Erik Potze, but he recently advised me he was no longer carrying them – you can still order water pump parts from GTReimer in Germany - just send him an email and ask about kit number 17010-31099-000-Z. A photo of the disassembled GT750 water pump is shown below.




The water pump repair kits include, referring to the photo above from left to right, the bearing, the oil seal, the two large o-rings located on the holder set for the pump driven shaft, either a carbon faced seal or a Teflon seal (if it is an after market kit), the small o-ring, the drive pin, the large circlip and the small circlip. Also included,but not shown are the banjo bolt washers for the drain line that runs from the top of the water pump housing through to the area of the water pump cover inside the transmission case. If the bellows (fourth from left, lower row), the seal seat ( sixth from left, lower row) or other parts are damaged then, if GTReiner can't help you, new water pumps are still available for purchase from your local friendly Suzuki dealer for about $180 USD if you live in the USA, and for much more than that if you live elsewhere.

the bellows (seen fourth from left on the lower row) are not available as a separate part number, and if the spring is damaged, then you will need to buy a new pump, or recycle from a spare. Also note that the carbon seat (seen fifth from left on the lower row) is quite fragile and can be broken easily. The Teflon replacement I had was lacking the two small locator grooves required for it to sit properly on the bellows when the pump is assembled and the large circlip is installed. I used a small file to make the modification

the oil seal seen second from the left is just a standard 10 x 22 x 8 ARS oil seal, and the bearing is Suzuki part number 08113-62000 and is still available from Suzuki dealers for about $6 USD in the USA - this is a NACHI 6200 series bearing, and there is a good reference chart available here which shows various bearings available from third parties, as well as cross references to different bearing manufacturers.

[mick 63]

Hi Mart, i have that web page in my bookmarks thanks, i've got everything to rebuild my water pump now from Crooks,
2 large o rings 1 small o ring
1 bearing,
1 oil seal
1 mechanical seal,
2 circlips & 1 gasket,

the only problem i have got is the new mechanical seal comes in its stainless steel seat as shown in the last couple of photos, the old mechanical seals seat is still in the water pump body, it seems to be bonded in with some type of white sealant?, or just a very tight fit ?

do i need to get that out and replace the seal as a whole?, cheers Mick.

[mart]

The seal in the stainless steel seat it should only be a push fit i would take it out and compair the steel seat's to make sure they are the identical if they are just replace the seal, i would imagine the steel seat is just pressed in with sealer something like a water core plug in a car, if you want to take the hole thing out warm the pump an tap it out or grab in with mole grips, you sound worried give it a go if it does not work let us no and we won't try it,
or give crooks a ring im sure they would help

[mark.read3]

wassa matter with everybody, no body done a damn water pump before ????
Ok mick, forget trying to yank it out, pry the oil seal out of the top. get a blowtorch on the thing and heat it gently , not too much heat is required. stick it in your vice to hold it gently whilst its resting on the bottom. get your favorite flat blade screwdriver and theres just enough of a lip to give it a couple of gentle taps and it'll just drop out mate.
When u go to put the mechanical seal back smear a light coat of suzi bond 4 round the seat agin and gently drift the new seal in with a socket..... i think it was a 1" or round about one but cant really remember, it was a few years ago. The socket shouldn't be touching the teflon bit just the outer ring..Did you ask Martin at crooks to photo copy the cbm guide on how to do it , it would have made things a lot clearer ???
Any problems , give me a shout and i'll drop you some photos of one i have in pieces.

[mick 63]

Cheers Mark, i never got round to asking Martin for the photo copy, i've never done a waterpump before on a GT so i'm more worried about knackering summat else up, anyhow i had a look before on my spare water pump & i managed to use the method you described , hammer & drift, got the old seat out no probs, i'll have a go at putting the new seal in tomorrow, cheers for all the help, i'll keep you posted, cheers Mick.

[mick 63]

Finally got all the bits together & time to get this sorted, took my kettle out for a quick blast & to get it nice & warm,

took the centre exhaust off & drained the coolant, loosened all the bolts for the waterpump cover seems someone had been in there before me,

1 sheared bolt and clear silicone as a gasket, got the cover off & first thing i notice is theres no circlip holding the impeler on,

after a closer look theres the remnants of a circlip in the groove but no bits to put the circlip pliers in,

used the blowtorch and srewdriver method to get the impeller off

so to get the pump out i used a long screwdriver and levered on the roll pin, it moved down slightly so i gave it another good soaking with wd40 levered again and out it popped,

got my mate to make me a tool to use to put the new mechanical seal into the pump body smeared a little sealant round it before knocking it in,

rebuilt the rest of the pump with new seals & bearing & a nos shaft off ebay,

getting the rebuilt pump back in, smeared it in engine oil ,took me a good few times to get the notch lined up & home but once it lined up it goes in enough to get the circlip in,

managed to drill out the broken bolt and run a tap up the thread so thats repaired to, used new bolts & gasket & some sealant either side of the gasket,

filled the cooling system up and fired her up, ran her till the thermostat opened and dropped the the water did this 3 times till i got it pretty well clear then filled with a new 50/50 mix,

looking good no leaks & no signs of oil in the coolant had her out for a 30 odd mile run & all looks good,

thanks for every ones help, keep on smokin, cheers Mick.

[yeadon_m]

Nice job and well done! really interesting teach-in, too.
Thanks,
Mike

[RichardsMorphy]

,

...............got my mate to make me a tool to use to put the new mechanical seal into the pump body

Can you help me out? Do you have this to hand and able to measure it for me please so I can knock one up?

The bike's 100 miles away at the mo and can't measure the seal.

TIA, Drew.

[mick 63]

hi Drew , I will measure it and take some photos tomorrow for you cheers Mick.